The Peacock at Rowsley

The handsome old-stone dower house has a rich history going back to the mid-17th century, but it is in its current incarnation as a smart hotel with an impressive fine-dining restaurant that it has become a key Peak District address. Renowned designer India Mahdavi has created an interior that makes the most of the antiquity of the building whilst ensuring a contemporary and somewhat luxurious mood pervades. The dining room, done-out in shades of purple, has an understated elegance, with bare darkwood tables and views out through the leaded windows over the garden. The cooking of chef Dan Smith is precise, beautiful to look at, and based on high quality produce, a good deal of which is local. There are lots of little extras to enjoy, from inventive amuse-bouche through to a pre-dessert such as plum compôte with almond mousse. A creative, complex first course might be poached duck egg served with air-dried duck, warm celeriac mousse, a smooth and delicious ceps purée, and truffled potatoes. Next up, monkfish, squid and pancetta in a fricassée, with red pepper arancini and a deeply-flavoured squid ink sauce, and to finish, an elegantly presented chocolate tart served with peanut parfait and salted-caramel ice cream. There's a charmingly stylish bar, too, with a menu of classic-yet-inventive dishes.