ST MAWGAN, Nr Newquay, TR8 4EP
This wisteria-clad, stone-built inn situated in the Vale of Lanherne is just four miles from Newquay. Although it can trace its ancestry back to 1758, it's probably older, given that by 1813 it had been renamed more than once. Since about 1880, however, it has clung to its current name, an allusion to the nearby estate's coat of arms. The flagstone-floored, winter log-fire-warmed interior is cosy and relaxing, while outside is a large, attractive garden with a magnificent magnolia tree and a cobbled courtyard. In the bar you'll find a rotating roster of predominantly West Country real ales and ciders, and a dozen wines served by the glass. Lunchtime could bring a starter of feta and beetroot muhammara (a Levantine dip) with pistachio dukkah with rustic toast and dressed salad leaves; something more conventional like smoked duck mousse pâté with piccalilli and toast; or just an appetising sandwich. There's also a good choice of home-made hot dishes, such as steak and kidney suet-crust pie with new potatoes and vegetables. In the more formal restaurant, the evening menu could prompt you to start with spiced home-cured salmon, onion bhaji and chilli herb salad; or maybe Cornish goats' cheese arancini with golden beetroot carpaccio, beetroot jelly and apple salad. Your main course options might then include trio of Primrose Herd rare breed pork sausages, spring onion and smoked cheese mash with real ale gravy; and beer-battered Newlyn hake with chips and mushy peas. A late July beer and cider festival is one of several fun events.