The Lord Poulett Arms

There's a hint of France in the secluded garden of this handsome stone village inn; the click of boules drifts across tumbled spreads of lavender, whilst a wisteria-shrouded pergola is tucked in next to an old fives wall. Within, sheltered by a thatched roof, all is firmly English, with a marvellous magpie-mix of polished antique furniture sprinkled liberally across timeworn boarded floors, polished old flagstones and a vast fireplace where demi-trees burn for winter warmth, pumping out the heat into tastefully decorated rooms. The feel is unstuffy and relaxed, and glowing evening candles create a classy comfortable look. The inner sanctum bar is popular with locals and their dogs, and dispenses cracking pints of Branscombe Vale Brewery ales and West Country ciders straight from the cask. With such a classic interior you wouldn't expect a modern twist on food, yet the kitchen delivers an eclectic menu that bristles with imagination and local raw ingredients. Everything is handled with aplomb, from salt beef brisket on home-made rye bread with pickle, mustard and triple-cooked chips, to the spicy West Bay crab linguine on the appealing daily-changing lunchtime menu. In the evening, perhaps start with roasted pumpkin soup with pumpkin seed pesto, then follow with chargrilled venison loin with confit walnuts, braised red cabbage, celeriac purée and port jus, or sea bass with smoked haddock and bacon hash and lemon butter sauce. Puddings include quince and walnut rice pudding, toffee apple crème brûlée with spiced shortbread, and a fine selection of West Country cheeses served with home-made chutney. There's a decent wine list, too, a summer weekend beer festival, and the set Sunday lunch menu is great value (two-course £16; three-course £19). Booking for meals may be required.