Witching Ways of Pendle

The name Pendle Hill means 'Hill Hill Hill'. The way this came about is typical of the convoluted history behind so many English place names. If you lived below Pendle, you might well call it simply 'the Hill', and early Celtic inhabitants did just that - 'Pen'. Later incomers, not realising this, called it Pendle, meaning 'the hill called Pen'. This meaning too became obscured, and the name was later applied to the whole district.

Pendle is also closely associated with witches. In 1612 seven women and two men were hanged at Lancaster Castle. Another old woman died in prison before the case had even been tried. All came from the Pendle area. It is a fact that several of the accused confessed, but whether any of them were witches is an almost unanswerable question today. The story is well told in several books, notably Robert Neill's classic novel, Mist Over Pendle. First published in 1951, it remains in print and is readily available in the area.

The walk starts easily, on a well-marked and much-trodden route (part of the Pendle Way) through green fields. While this shorter loop avoids the challenge of the steep upper slopes, it does make a fairly level, but moderately rough, traverse along their base, giving a taste of the wilder atmosphere of the high moors. Perhaps you can begin to appreciate how isolated and remote parts of the district may have felt in the 17th century.

From the plantations and reservoirs of Ogden Clough you climb on to a subsidiary ridge, which gives the best views of the walk, then descend to the small village of Newchurch in Pendle. It was new in 1544, anyway! Although no one knows for sure, it is thought that Malkin Tower, where the witches met, was situated near by. On the tower of St Mary's Church is the 'Eye of God', which was supposed to protect the villagers from witchcraft, and in the churchyard there's a 'witch's grave', possibly that of Alice Nutter.

Beyond Newchurch the route follows the continuation of the ridge, looking down on Roughlee, though caravan sites make it hard to visualise the 17th-century landscape. Roughlee was the home of Alice Nutter, a gentlewoman who was among those hanged at Lancaster. Although poor, old women, especially widows, were most likely to be suspect, no one was exempt from the paranoia of the times. Anyone who kept a dog or cat, for instance, ran the risk of being accused of consorting with a 'familiar spirit'.

Finally the walk follows the banks of bubbling Pendle Water, past cottages and an old mill, back to Barley.

Where to eat and drink

The Pendle Inn dates from the 1930s and the fine, panelled interior is original. There's an open fire, good beer and solid pub food, available all day at weekends. There's also a place to sit outside overlooking the beck, and an extensive play area for children.

While you're there

Pendle Heritage Centre is 2 miles (3.2km) away, off the B6247 on the outskirts of Barrowford. In a lovingly restored 17th-century house you can find out much more about the story of the Pendle witches, and about the general history of the area. You'll also find lots of 'witch' material and souvenirs at Witches Galore in Newchurch.

What to look for

The moors of Pendle are largely grassy, less dominated by heather than those of Bowland. There's much greater variety of plants than may initially meet the eye. Low growing tormentil has yellow flowers like tiny Maltese crosses: you'll have to get down low to see that it's actually a member of the rose family. The unmistakable fluffy white tufts of cotton grass, also known as bog cotton, are a marker for wet ground.