Waltzing Around Walton-on-the-Naze

In the early 19th century Walton-le-Soken, as Walton-on-the-Naze was then known, emerged as a seaside resort attracting fashionable folk from London and county families from Essex, who used bathing machines to dip their toes in the waters. The first terraced houses brought genteel residents, a hotel provided visitors with accommodation and before long the area became as popular as Southend with a pier packed with pastimes. Although Walton's name has since changed, two neighbouring villages, Kirby-le-Soken and Thorpe-le-Soken, still retain the original suffix.

Nowadays visitors can enjoy amusement arcades, tenpin bowling, restaurants and sea fishing, and the holiday atmosphere is complete with kiss-me-quick hats, jellied eels and seaside rock. But if you wander north of the town and its lovely wide sandy beaches, you'll discover a haven for bird life in the John Weston Nature Reserve, named after a local warden, and a multitude of sailing craft tucked in the creeks.

Part of the town is situated on a headland called The Naze, hence its name. The word originates from the Anglo-Saxon 'ness' or 'naes' meaning a headland, while Walton may mean 'walled town' from the sea wall. Natural erosion has played a big part in the development of Walton-on-the-Naze, although some would class it as terrifying destruction. In 1798 Walton's second church was washed away and at low tide they say you can still hear the bell ring; in 1880 its first pier was destroyed by heavy seas; World War Two gun emplacements and pillboxes built on the Naze itself fell on to the beach and in the next few years, the Naze Tower, a Grade II listed building, which is only just 100yds (91m) from the cliff edge will also be at risk.

Conservationists predict that unless coastal erosion is stopped, or at least slowed down to managable levels, then the area known as the Walton backwaters and home to thousands of birds, seals and other wildlife, will disappear along with a large part of Walton itself. It may come as no surprise that even the lifeboat here lacks a permanent mooring. In fact it is the only lifeboat in Britain to have a mooring in the open sea. It is near the end of the pier and, when the alarm is raised, the lifeboat crew cycle the length of the pier and use a small launch to reach it.

Choose a summer's day for this gentle walk, which takes you through the town and along the seafront to the Naze Tower. You can walk along the beach or along the promenade depending on the tidal conditions. Year round, Walton-on-the-Naze is a delight to explore. In winter you'll see waders and a range of wildfowl, including brent geese and, in summer, you may be lucky to spot rare avocets, which breed here. They have unusual upturned bills which they sweep through the water collecting shrimps and worms.

What to look for

You can see the geological structure of the cliffs from small promontories or from the beach. At the top of the cliffs the boulder clay and gravel date from the Ice Age. Below are red crag and the slippery grey deposits of London clay, which at the bottom look like brown flakes. Sand martins nest here.

While you're there

Call in at the Maritime Museum and see the exhibits relating to Frinton and Walton's close association with the sea and farming. This former lifeboat house also has displays on lifeboat history, including snippets on how the local lifeboat was regularly called out to pirate radio ships in distress in the 1960s.

Where to eat and drink

There are lots of cafés, fast food and fish and chip shops along the Esplanade and in the High Street. Open year round is Grandma's in Newgate Street, a delightful low-ceilinged restaurant offering steak and kidney pie and other treats. The Victory pub is next door while White's offers pie and mash and jellied or stewed eels. A snack bar beside Naze Tower keeps hungry walkers happy too.