The Pulhams and the Pulham Pigs

In 1915 the name Pulham was known to every schoolchild interested in aircraft, because it was the home of the great airships that were used to attack German shipping in the First World War. Competing with the huge German Zeppelins that were terrorising the North Sea coast, some of the ships were over 600ft (183m) long, with gondolas slung precariously underneath them. The gondolas bristled with guns and bombs and brave crews flew these machines over the North Sea and harassed enemy U-boats. Because of their shape, they were known as Pulham Pigs. You will see one of them if you look closely at the Pulham village sign. The Pigs were stabled at a large site to the south of the village.

When the war ended, some of the airships were retained and one, the R34, completed the first ever there-and-back-again transatlantic air journey in 1919. The gigantic R33 broke away from its mooring in 1925, carrying some of its crew with it. The hapless men were carried out across the North Sea before they could complete enough emergency repairs to begin a homeward journey. Fortunately, 29 hours after the disaster, the ship limped back to Pulham, where it was safely secured and its crew were given a heroes' welcome.

However, Pulham has a far more ancient history than the Pulham Pigs. The Romans decided this fertile valley was a good place to farm and there has been almost continuous settlement here ever since. Pulham St Mary Magdalene was granted a charter to hold a weekly market in 1249 and the villagers must have been relieved to change the name to Pulham Market, to avoid confusion with nearby Pulham St Mary the Virgin. A market has not been held in the village for about 300 years, but the village still keeps its name.

The grandeur of the Church of St Mary Magdalene, with its handsome arch-braced roof, indicates that the village was wealthy in the 15th century, with plenty of benefactors who were happy to spend their money on fine buildings. In the 17th century, the rich, Puritan cloth merchant William Pennoyer bequeathed money to the village school, which continued in use until it closed in 1988. One of the classrooms was built inside the old flint Chapel of St James, which dates from 1401. The school bell was given to a descendent of Pennoyer, who passed it to Harvard University in the USA, which had also received Pennoyer funding.

What to look for

In Pulham St Mary there is a village pump, outside Pump Cottage, and The Forge was once a blacksmith's shop. The village sign depicts the airships for which it was briefly famous. Pennoyer's School dates from the 1670s and was built into the chapel of the Guild of St James, which was suppressed in 1547. Pulham Market has picturesque cottages that make it quintessentially English.

While you're there

Harleston, to the south east, is a good village from which to explore the lovely countryside around the River Waveney. Harleston is also famous for its rose nurseries, especially during summer, and 2 miles (3.2km) further on, the little village of Mendham is the birthplace of the painter Alfred Munnings (1878-1959). To the south is Diss with its wide mere and smattering of Victorian, Georgian and Tudor houses.

Where to eat and drink

In Pulham Market, the Falcon Inn has an outdoor seating area and serves home-cooked food. The Crown is about 400 years old and offers an imaginative choice of local and exotic dishes, along with several local and guest beers. The King's Head in Pulham St Mary is even older than the Crown and also offers good food.