Sherston and Easton Grey's Cotswold Fringe

The Bristol Avon rises in the foothills of the Cotswolds in the north west corner of Wiltshire and is little more than a wide and shallow stream as it flows through the gently rolling pastoral countryside west of Malmesbury. Despite its size, this peaceful river enhances all the charming little stone villages in this unspoilt and somewhat forgotten area of north Wiltshire, which is typically Cotswold in appearance and character. In fact, 18 villages between Colerne and Malmesbury are officially part of the Cotswold Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Of these, Sherston must rank among the most attractive, with its wide High Street, doubtless once used as a market, lined with some interesting 17th- and 18th-century buildings. Sherston was a borough by the 15th century and prospered as a result of the flourishing wool trade at the time. It still has the feel of a market town, with narrow back streets and alleys, and continues to be a thriving community despite becoming a dormitory village.

It has been suggested that Sherston is Sceorstan, as chronicled by Henry of Huntingdon, where in 1016 Edmund Ironside won a battle against the Danes who were led by King Canute. The early legend of John Rattlebone, a local yeoman promised land by Ironside in return for service against the Danes is deep rooted. Sadly, this brave knight was terribly wounded in battle and although he staunched his bleeding with a stone tile and continued fighting, he reputedly died as Canute's army withdrew. Other traditions say Rattlebone survived to claim his reward. In the 17th century, the antiquary John Aubrey recorded the following local rhyme: 'Fight well, Rattlebone, Thou shalt have Sherston, What shall I with Sherston do, Without I have all belongs thereto? Thou shalt have Wych and Wellesley, Easton Town and Pinkeney'.

Later traditions tell us that the small stone effigy on the south side of the porch outside the parish church is that of Rattlebone, and that an ancient timber chest in the church, marked with the initials R B, is supposed to be where Rattlebone kept his armour. Whatever the truth is, the Rattlebone Inn opposite the church keeps his name alive, its sign showing Rattlebone in action.

Peaceful parkland and riverside paths lead you downstream to picturesque Easton Grey. Set around a 16th-century stone bridge and climbing a short, curving street is an intimate huddle of ancient stone houses, with mullioned windows, steep, lichen-covered roofs and colourful, flower-filled gardens that touch the river bank. Set back on a rise above the river is Easton Grey House, a handsome 18th-century manor house with a classical façade and portico, surrounded by elegant gardens and lovely valley views. It was the summer retreat of Herbert Asquith, 1st Earl of Oxford, when he was Prime Minister between 1908 and 1916.

Where to eat and drink

Rest weary limbs and refuel at the Rattlebone Inn in Sherston. A lively inn with a great atmosphere, the rambling bars are the setting for hearty lunchtime snacks and imaginative evening meals with decent wine and Youngs ales. Alternatively, try the Carpenters Arms which is noted for fresh fish.

While you're there

Nearby Luckington Court Gardens, TV film location for Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice (1995), has a 3 acre (1.2ha) formal garden and a walled flower garden. Head north just across the border into Gloucestershire to visit Westonbirt Arboretum, one of the finest and most important collections of trees and shrubs in the country. Visit in spring for the impressive displays of rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias and wild flowers, and later in the year for the magnificent autumn colours.

What to look for

The wide, hedged and dead-straight track that you follow on your return route to Sherston is the Fosse Way. This an the ancient Roman road that ran from Lincoln to Exeter and is so named because it was bordered on both sides by a 'fosse' or ditch.