Roads and Residents at Badbury Rings

The most obvious and lasting legacy of the Roman invasion of Britain in ad 43 is the network of straight military roads that they constructed, like a spider's web, across the country. Before they came, many of the routes may have already existed as tracks, but it took the Roman desire for effective communication and control across their empire to make these permanent - there are many stretches still in use today. A few roads would have actually been paved, but usually fine gravel was layered over coarser chippings for effective drainage (a forerunner of modern tarmac).

Four of the most important Roman routes across Dorset met at the hub of Badbury Rings. The most famous and visible of these is Ackling Dyke, the major road which linked London (Londinium) with Old Sarum (Sorviodunum), Dorchester (Durnovaria, the civitas or Roman capital of the Dorset area) and Exeter (Iscarduniorum).

Badbury Rings was a massive fort, occupying a spectacular vantage point. Bronze-Age burial barrows in the area confirm a settlement here around 2000 bc, and the rings and ditches of the fort date from the 6th century bc. At that time Dorset was inhabited by the Durotriges tribe, who were prosperous Iron-Age traders, farmers and potters.

The indications are that the Second Augusta Legion, under the command of Vespasian (who would later become Emperor) had built an advance base at Lake Farm, beside the River Stour at Wimborne. They realised the strategic importance of Badbury and, at some time in the early years of the invasion, the Legionaries attacked and took control of the hill top. The fort was systematically dismantled, the unlucky inhabitants killed, sold into slavery or otherwise dispersed.

The Romans went on to build their own fortified citadel called Vindocladia, near by at Shapwick. When the Romans finally withdrew from Britain in the 5th century, this site was absorbed back into the Dorset landscape, like so many other Roman structures.

Badbury Rings did not disappear from history however. Many believe that it was the site of Mount Badon, or Mons Badonicus, where King Arthur fought and won a legendary battle against the Saxons around ad 516. In 1645 the fort served as a meeting place for the Dorset Clubmen, a ragged, badly armed force opposing both parties in the Civil War. Over 4,000 gathered to hear speeches by local notables. The meeting alerted Cromwell to their threat and they were subsequently routed by his New Model Army.

Where to eat and drink

The red brick Anchor free house in the centre of Shapwick village goes out of its way to welcome families (and dogs are welcome at the bar end). Aside from staples such as home-made steak and mushroom pie, for something more exotic, try the kangaroo braised in port. There's also a good vegetarian choice.

What to look for

Don't miss the little grey Abbey Church of St Mary the Virgin in Tarrant Crawford. Once a nunnery, its simple interior has dark box pews, panelling around the altar and a Jacobean pulpit. Some details of its 14th-century wall-painting of the legend of St Margaret of Antioch are still discernible. A brass cross in the floor commemorates where rector Francis Alfred Smith dropped dead after giving evensong in July 1877, at the tender age of 35.

While you're there

In an idyllic setting beside the River Stour at Sturminster Marshall is White Mill, a beautifully restored corn mill. Just to the west of Wimborne you'll find Kingston Lacy, a delightful mansion set in vast parkland. Built in 1663 for the Bankes family after the destruction of their previous home in Corfe Castle, today the house has a particularly fine collection of paintings. Both the mill and the house are preserved by the National Trust.