Pyrford's Romantic Runaways

You could hardly imagine a more romantic hideaway than Queen Elizabeth's summerhouse. This mellow, red brick building stands two storeys high, with a first floor entrance and a curious, ogee-pitched roof to keep off the rain. At just fourteen feet square you wouldn't hold a party here, but it's a cosy enough little spot for two; you'll see it on the riverbank in the grounds of Pyrford Place, half a mile south of Pyrford Lock. A blue plaque on the wall records that the poet and clergyman John Donne lived here in the early years of the 17th century - but that isn't the half of it?

John Donne was born into a wealthy London family in 1572. He was educated at Oxford and Cambridge, and went on to study law and theology at the Inns of Court in London. It's clear that Donne was a deeply religious young man, yet he was also passionate by nature; he had inherited a considerable fortune and he spent his money on womanising, on books, and on all the pleasures that London could offer.

After his studies, Donne passed a couple of years with naval adventures to Spain and the Azores, before returning to London in 1598 to begin a promising career as secretary to Sir Thomas Egerton, Keeper of the Great Seal. In the same year he met the love of his life, Egerton's 14 year-old niece, Anne More. The couple married secretly in 1601, when Anne was just 17. John was in trouble, big time. Anne's father, Sir George More, had him thrown into the Fleet Prison, together with two friends who had helped to conceal the affair. Although Sir George later relented and allowed the marriage to stand, the episode had cost John his job; his own money had gone and, with a growing family to support, things were looking bleak.

Luckily for the two lovers, not all of Anne's family were so prickly. Her cousin offered them shelter at Pyrford Place, where they spent the early years of their married life. John began to earn a small income from legal work; Anne's father was reconciled and paid his daughter's dowry; and John entered the church, becoming royal chaplain in 1615. But then, just as things were starting to improve, tragedy struck. In 1617, Anne died after giving birth to the couple's twelfth child, which was stillborn. She was only 33. John was devastated. He continued to write poetry, but sermons now took the place of love songs. In 1621 James I appointed him Dean of St Paul's, and he held the post until his death ten years later.

Where to eat and drink

The riverside conservatory and patio at the Anchor are popular spots to sit and watch the boats moving up and down through Pyrford lock. You might not fall in love with the architecture of this large, 1930s building, but so what? It's a handy halfway stop, there's a friendly welcome, and you can get something to eat here at any time of day. Choose from a nice selection of sensibly priced bar snacks and meals, plus a traditional roast on Sundays.

While you're there

Whatever the season, you're sure to enjoy the colourful displays at the Royal Horticultural Society's world famous Wisley gardens. As well as the collections of flowers, alpines, fruit and vegetables, you'll see a variety of demonstration gardens packed with practical ideas that will keep you busy long after you get home. With its restaurant, gift shop and plant centre, Wisley has something for everyone. The gardens are open all year round, but you won't get in on Sundays unless you're an RHS member.

What to look for

This walk abounds in romance, and the forlorn remains of Newark Priory are as romantic as any Victorian watercolour. The Priory was probably founded by Augustinian Canons late in the 12th century. It would have been abandoned at the Dissolution in 1536, so the buildings were almost certainly falling into ruins by the time that John Donne knew them. The flint walls of the presbytery and the south transept still stand almost to their original height - but take your binoculars for a closer look, as the ruins are on private land.