Perfect Mansion at Compton Wynyates

Regarded as one of the most visually striking mansions in England and described by Pevsner as 'the most perfect picture-book house of the Early Tudor decades', Compton Wynyates is all that remains of the village of Compton-in-the-Hole, which was depopulated by Sir William Compton during the reign of Henry VIII. The reason was simple. Sir William wanted to create a spacious park around his new home, built in brick on the site of an earlier structure, and the village was in the way.

Lying in a secluded fold of the hills, about 12 miles (19km) south east of Stratford-upon-Avon, Compton Wynyates first came into the possession of Philip de Compton in about 1204 and has been in the same family ever since. The original moated house was demolished and a new brick and stone building begun in about 1481 by Edmund de Compton, part of which still survives in the vicinity of the courtyard. The rebuilding of Compton Wynyates took about 40 years to complete.

The house passed to Edmund's son who, at the end of the 15th century, was a young page to Prince Henry. He was knighted by Henry VIII following the Battle of Tournai in 1512 and, as a gesture of thanks, the King also gifted him the old castle at Fulbroke, near Warwick. However, so keen was the Compton family to improve and enlarge Compton Wynyates that the castle was soon demolished to provide extra materials. Undoubtedly, the timber roof of the hall and the oriel window facing the courtyard came from Fulbroke. Many other distinguished features from that period include the battlemented towers and the great porch, which has the arms of Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon above the door.

The variety of colour in the brickwork is breathtaking, with hardly two bricks being the same shade. As you look down the drive towards the house, you should catch a hint of pale rose, orange, dark red and blue. Henry VIII stayed here on several occasions, as did Elizabeth I, James I and Charles I, but it was during the Civil War that Compton Wynyates experienced its darkest days. The house was besieged and finally captured by the Parliamentarians before eventually being returned to the Compton family. The church was completely demolished at the time and this period in Britain's history left deep scars on Compton Wynyates.

Privately owned and sadly not open to the public, Compton Wynyates comprises a fascinating network of secret passages, hidden rooms and fine stairways. It is said there are almost 100 rooms and about 300 windows. The dining room has a fine Elizabethan, or perhaps early Jacobean, ceiling and there are many portraits in the house of Compton ancestors. Carved panels depicting the Battle of Tournai and a 16th-century tapestry of Cupid picking grapes are among many other historic features.

While you're there

Visit nearby Upton House, now in the care of the National Trust. The house dates back to 1695 and was acquired and remodelled in 1927-29 by Walter Samuel, son of the founder of Shell. Upton has a fine collection of English and continental old master paintings, and outdoors is an impressive garden with terraces, herbaceous borders and an interesting 1930s water garden.

Where to eat and drink

The Peacock Inn, a traditional village pub, is situated in the centre of Tysoe and offers a range of snacks and main meals. There is also a pleasant beer garden and restaurant.

What to look for

Tysoe church is a rare, Grade I listed building dating back to the 11th century at least. Among various treasures inside are a striking octagonal Perpendicular font, ancient brasses and window glass. Compton Pike can be seen across the fields as you approach the main entrance to Compton Wynyates. The pike, more a spire really, is a beacon thought to have been erected at the time of the Spanish Armada in 1588. It may also have been put up to indicate the position of the old village of Compton-in-the-Hole.