On Saltfleet's Dunes

A west-east cross-section of Lincolnshire reveals a highly contrasting county - from the agricultural flatlands around Lincoln and Gainsborough to the pleasantly undulating Wolds. However, it's the long North Sea coastline that perhaps holds the most surprises, for if you thought that there wasn't much more to it than funfairs and holiday camps, try this walk for size. It's centred on the Saltfleetby-Theddlethorpe Dunes National Nature Reserve (and try saying that with a mouthful of crisps), an extensive strip of unspoilt beach and marshland that is a valuable natural habitat for wildlife.

To get a flavour of this peculiar landscape, set aside a few minutes either before or after your walk to explore the short (980yds/896m) Easy Access Trail just to the south of the car park. Information panels explain such fascinating phenomena as 13th-century sand dunes and identify plants like wild asparagus and bee orchids. Several different habitats make up this nature reserve. The early summer highlight of the bog and freshwater marshes landward of the dunes are carpets of deep pink and purple marsh orchids, and when the temperature rises sufficiently dragonflies and damselflies will take to the wing. The vast rolling dunes are partly covered by clumps of wiry grass and bushes of spiky sea buckthorn, which in autumn are covered by bright orange berries. Meanwhile plants such as sea lavender and sea purslane thrive on the salty fringes of the beach, while oystercatchers, with their distinctive black and white plumage and long orange beaks, probe the mud for worms or prise open shellfish.

The marshes off Saltfleet are famous, in particular, for vast beds of samphire. Also known as glasswort, this small herbaceous annual with thick green stems was once burnt to provide ash for use in the glass-making industry. It used to be called Poor Man's Asparagus, and is still eaten as a starter for a meal. First of all you wash and soak it in cold water to remove the saltiness, then boil it for a few minutes in a small amount of water and serve with lemon juice and a generous knob of butter. Alternatively, a Lincolnshire variation has it pickled and eaten with chine or boiled bacon.

It's also worth pointing out that this part of the coast is sometimes used by the RAF for pilot training, and in particular the practice bombing of offshore targets. When this is happening a large red flag will be flying at the end of Sea Lane at Saltfleet, and there will also be red beacons and buoys to cordon off the precise area. It doesn't affect the walk at all, and in fact the event often becomes something of an attraction in its own right, but don't expect to see many birds on those days.

Where to eat and drink

There are two pubs in Saltfleet that serve food and drink daily: the Crown Inn (actually on the route) and the New Inn, a little further on in the centre of the village on the A1031. Several snack bars by the caravan sites on Sea Lane also offer a variety of refreshments.

While you're there

All Saints Church at Theddlethorpe is sometimes referred to locally as the 'Cathedral of the Marsh', although it now stands high and dry and entirely isolated as both the water and the local congregation have gradually disappeared over the years. It's partly maintained by the Churches Conservation Trust who look after scores of similar buildings across the country, affectionately known as 'churches in retirement' (find out more at www.visitchurches.org.uk).

What to look for

Saltfleet was once an important Roman port, and marked the northern end of the Fosse Way, which ran from the North Sea via Lincoln and Newark to Exeter. Repeated incursions by the sea were responsible for eroding the town and swallowing up Saltfleet's church, until eventually, in 1854, the mouth of the river was straightened and the sea defences strengthened.