No Surrender in Wartime Harrow Weald

By the spring of 1940, German forces had penetrated Western Europe so extensively that only Britain stood in the way of the Nazis taking complete control of the continent. It became clear, however, that Adolf Hitler was up against one of the best air forces in the world, and Bentley Priory played a strategic part in this battle of land - and wits.

Unlike the Royal Air Force airfields that were home to British fighter planes during the war, the land surrounding Bentley Priory was without aircraft, yet it was one of a number of such places that were vital to the success of RAF operations.

The former country mansion was taken over by the RAF in 1926. It was enlarged considerably before it became the headquarters of Fighter Command, a group of high-ranking officers and other personnel on whose shoulders rested the ultimate responsibility for defending the country. This elite unit was formed in 1936 as part of the RAF's reorganisation and expansion in Britain. It was further divided into a number of groups, each of which took responsibility for a particular region. At the beginning of the Battle of Britain, for example, London and the South East was covered by 11 Group. These groups were also sub-divided into geographical areas for additional precision.

Bentley Priory was the centre of a highly sophisticated control network that relayed information on hostile aircraft movements via secure landlines from the radar stations to its 'filter room'. Once the plots of hostile aircraft had been established, the relevant group was alerted and the sector stations then activated the fighter squadrons.

When, in 1940, German forces occupied the whole of the northern European seaboard, Britain braced itself for attack. The Luftwaffe knew that, to gain air superiority over southern England, it first needed to destroy the RAF's fighter planes. It was necessary to win control of the skies just long enough for land and sea forces to come ashore. The Battle of Britain, as it became known, ran from July to October. Initially the Luftwaffe attacked targets in the south, including radar stations, until it reached the airfields near to London in 11 Group. Sir Winston Churchill, who had become Prime Minister in May of that year, told the House of Commons that the battle of France was over and that he expected the battle of Britain to begin soon - it began one month after his remarks. The Battle of Britain was a close shave, with some of the vital airfields around London being struck, but the enemy made a tactical mistake in choosing to concentrate on the capital. A week later, Fighter Command had recovered sufficiently to prove its superior strength. Today, in peacetime, Bentley Priory remains important, monitoring the security of British airspace.

While you're there

Grim's Dyke is a major earthwork some 4 miles (6.4km) long. It's best reached by turning left at The Case is Altered and taking the footpath on the opposite side of the road. Excavations in 1957 revealed that the apparent military boundary dating from the 5th century ad was built with only primitive wood and flint tools.

Where to eat and drink

Where the track past Copse Farm to Old Redding meets the road, you'll find a pub with the unusual name of The Case is Altered. Some say it's derives from the Spanish 'casa alta' (high house) but others think it came about when judges used to meet here, discuss cases, and possibly change their minds. The food is creative but simple. Hand pumps include Old Speckled Hen and Calder's. The garden has a wonderful view over the surrounding countryside.

What to look for

When you enter the wood at Point 5, look out for beech trees. They grow well in this easily drained, gravel soil and can reach a height of 130ft (40m). They are recognised by their smooth, grey bark, and long, pointed brown buds and oval-shaped leaves. Older beeches flower in May and drop their seeds in the autumn, providing a good supply of food for squirrels and birds.