Moulton and Three Churches

This walk has everything - woodland, farmland, riverside paths, splendid views, plenty of history and three pretty villages with interesting churches and welcoming pubs. It is hard to think of a walk in Suffolk which encompasses so much variety.

The route is known locally as the Three Churches Walk, as it takes in the three churches at Moulton, Gazeley and Dalham. Much of the walk follows the Icknield Way, an ancient trail that dates back to the time of the Iceni tribe, whose warrior-queen, Boudica, ruled East Anglia in the 1st century ad. The original trail ran from Norfolk to Wiltshire and is thought to be Britain's oldest road. The modern Icknield Way path begins at Knettishall Heath in Suffolk and is waymarked with the sign of an axe.

This is horse racing country, just a few short gallops from Newmarket. Look out for thoroughbred horses at the Gazeley Stud, or grazing on the village green at Moulton. Don't be surprised to hear locals discussing the latest racing gossip or tips in the village pubs.

Moulton, where the walk begins, is best known for its 15th-century packhorse bridge, on the old cart road from Cambridge to Bury St Edmunds. It's built of flint with four arches lined in brick. The parapet walls were built low to allow the horses' packs to swing clear. The River Kennett flows underneath the bridge, though these days it is little more than a trickle.

Dalham is the most attractive of the three villages. Some three-quarters of the houses here are thatched, more than anywhere else in Suffolk. Behind the church, Dalham Hall was built for the Bishop of Ely in 1704, with instructions that Ely Cathedral should be visible from the upper floors. Unfortunately, a fire in 1957 means that the hall has been reduced to two storeys and the view of the cathedral has been lost. One of the previous owners of Dalham Hall was Cecil Rhodes (1853-1902), the Victorian empire-builder and founder of Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), who died before he could live in the hall. There are memorials to members of his family in a corner of St Mary's churchyard. A visit to the church gives fascinating glimpses into Dalham's aristocratic and social history. Among the squires of Dalham recalled in stone are Sir Martin Stuteville, who 'visited the American world with Francis Drake', and his ancestor Thomas Stuteville, who 'kept hospitalitye in the manor place... and had 15 children.' There are also memorials to members of the Affleck family, from whom the village pub takes its name, and to their faithful servants.

Where to eat and drink

There are pubs in all three villages. The Affleck Arms in Dalham is an attractive thatched pub serving home-cooked food in the bar and at tables outside by the river. Alternatively, for a picnic, the post office in Moulton sells filled rolls and locally-made pies.

While you're there

Just north of Moulton, at a junction on the B1506, lies the grave of Joseph, an unknown gypsy boy who hanged himself after he was accused of stealing a sheep. At one time, suicides were refused burial in the churchyard and were buried at crossroads to prevent their spirits from wandering. The tombstone has become a shrine and flowers are often placed there by punters hoping for luck on their way to Newmarket races.