Lambourne End to Chigwell

Hainault Forest was once part of the royal forest which stretched right across Essex. Like the forests of Epping and Hatfield, deer were bred here to supply the royal table, but the forest is also famous for being the stamping ground of a rather infamous character, Dick Turpin (1705-39). This legendary highwayman probably had a hand in the business of poaching deer and whatever else he could lay his hands on, before turning his talents to the less risky pursuits of housebreaking and robbery.

Born in a pub in Hempstead, the young Dick started his working life as a butcher in Whitechapel. One day, when caught in the act of cattle rustling, he fled to deepest Essex, only to resurface as a small-time smuggler, thief and highwayman. The business of travel in Turpin's time was no mean feat, for who knew when he or his cronies would strike as those brave enough made the dangerous journey through Hainault Forest? When a job was done, Turpin would call at Ye Old Kings Head in Chigwell for a quick pint, pick up details of when the next coach was due and plan his next crime. After a life of highway robbery and murder he was hung at York, but it was thanks to Harrison Ainsworth's novel, Rookwood (1834), in which a description of his supposed epic ride from Westminster to York caught the popular imagination, that Turpin was transformed into a glamorous character.

In the forest it is not difficult to picture a masked highwayman galloping through misty woodlands of weirdly sculpted trees to Chigwell Row, with its delightful church and collection of characterful hostelries. In the area around east London there are many pubs called the Black Horse in honour of Turpin's steed, Black Bess, but it is at Ye Old Kings Head at Chigwell where, it is said, the rogue secreted his pistols inside the walls. They have not been found, neither has the cellar tunnel connected to Chigwell church across the road, which he used to escaped his pursuers.

Relish the atmosphere of this old Tudor pub which Charles Dickens (1812-70) described as the Maypole (not to be confused with the Maypole at Chigwell Row) in Barnaby Rudge (1841). Of Ye Old Kings Head he wrote that it had 'more gable-ends than a lazy man would care to count on a sunny day'. As you walk across the rolling countryside, particularly between Chigwell and Lambourne End, a superb London skyline with Canary Wharf in the distance reveals itself. And although it's said that the ghost of Dick Turpin riding Black Bess appears twice a week, he won't trouble you as long as you keep to the marked paths?

Where to eat and drink

There is a good choice of pubs and most have plenty of character. Top of the bill has to be Ye Old Kings Head at Chigwell, immortalised by Dickens in Barnaby Rudge. The Retreat at Lambourne End provides good pub grub and a beer garden, and the Camelot's elevated position in Manor Road, overlooking beautiful countryside, makes a convenient stop beside the car park.

While you're there

BBC Essex Garden at Abridge owned by gardener, Ken Crowther, is a good example of a working garden with herbaceous, shrub and vegetable borders. It has a café, organic garden, children's garden and farm animals. If you're keen on clematis there are over 400 varieties and an expert on site.

What to look for

Inside Hainault Country Park is a lovely pond and rare breeds farm where you can pet the animals. Relax over a hot drink and snack at the picnic tables and enjoy great views of the London skyline or visit the museum at the visitors' centre which is housed in a Tudor barn and includes forest exhibits.