From the Sea to the Deans

I love seaside towns and villages and one of my favourite coastal places is Rottingdean, to the east of Brighton. I like it because it's a picturesque village with a green and lots of flint houses. But there's a stronger, more personal reason why I'm drawn to the place. My parents worked and met there, beginning their married life in this village.

Rottingdean is one of seven Saxon settlements on this stretch of the Sussex coast, all ending in 'dean.' The word 'dean' or 'dene' means hollow or valley of the South Downs. The Deans is the collective name for them and, apart from Roedean, the famous public school for girls, Rottingdean is probably the most well known. Despite expanding development over the years, the village still retains the feel of an independent community. But there's a lot more to Rottingdean than historic buildings and landmarks, as a tour of the village will reveal.

Start the walk by following the scenic Undercliff, with its close-up view of the sea, then look for a comprehensive information board at the junction of the High Street and the A259, which helps you to identify what's what and who lived where as you explore the village streets. For example, the Black Horse was said to have been a meeting place for smugglers, while Whipping Post House was the home of Captain Dunk, the local butcher and a renowned bootlegger.

Rudyard Kipling lived at The Elms in Rottingdean until driven away by inquisitive fans and autograph hunters. He wrote Kim and the Just So stories here - among other works. Kipling loved the South Downs and he found these hills a great source of inspiration. 'Our blunt, bow-headed, whale-backed Downs', he wrote in his famous poem Sussex.

Some of Kipling's relatives had local associations and it was here in the village that his cousin Stanley Baldwin met and married Lucy Ridsdale, whose family lived at The Dene. Baldwin was a Conservative statesman who, as Prime Minister, secured three terms in office during the 1920s and 30s.

The flint church at Rottingdean is noted for its impressive stained glass windows designed by the Pre-Raphaelite artist Sir Edward Burne-Jones who lived at North End House on the west side of the green. Enid Bagnold who wrote the famous novel National Velvet was also a local resident.

From the green, the walk climbs up to Beacon Hill above Rottingdean. The views are breathtaking as you make your way over this high ground, down to Ovingdean church and back towards Roedean.

Where to eat and drink

Along the Undercliff, you'll find a café open at weekends throughout the year. The historic Black Horse in Rottingdean is one of five inns in the village and has a snack menu which includes soup, sandwiches, ploughmans and baguettes. Rottingdean also boasts several tea rooms.

What to look for

As you descend to the Undercliff, look for the extensive apartment buildings of Brighton marina. Opened in 1978, this is Europe's largest purpose-built yacht harbour, with moorings for several thousand boats. Founded in 1855, Roedean School moved to its present site in the late 1890s from Sussex Square in Brighton. During World War II the school relocated to Keswick in the Lake District to avoid any threat of enemy attack. At various stages along the walk there are small stones to be seen beside the path, bearing the initials RS and the date - 1938. There is no record of these stones in the school archives, though they might be some form of boundary marker.

While you're there

Visit Rottingdean Grange Museum. Originally the vicarage, the Grange used to be the home of the artist Sir William Nicholson, who lived here prior to the First World War. The building was enlarged by Sir Edwin Lutyens and now includes a gallery and museum. Among the exhibits is a reconstruction of Rudyard Kipling's study. The story of the Coppers, who have done much to preserve the tradition of Sussex folksongs over the years, is also recorded. In 1950 Bob Copper traced Hilaire Belloc's journey on foot across Sussex from east to west.