Farnborough's Old Rectory

John Betjeman (1906-84) has been described as the most popular poet of the 20th century. With his infectious laugh, air of eccentricity and sense of fun, he was an immensely popular character and, having been born into the television age, he was a natural performer for that particular medium. He loved the camera and it loved him in return.

Over the years Betjeman has been the subject of many distinguished television documentaries - intimate portraits that reflected the man's true identity and personality. They demonstrated his love for architecture, for historic landmarks and endangered buildings, illustrating to the viewer how he lovingly brought them to life in his own highly individual style.

However, few of these TV biographies make any mention of his home in the splendid Old Rectory at Farnborough in Berkshire. Betjeman and his wife Penelope moved here in 1945, and in the summer of that year she wrote to a friend, Wilhelmine Harrod: 'Father has bought us a beautiful William and Mary house 700ft up on the downs above Wantage with 12 acres of land, including a wood and two fields. It is a dream of beauty but has no water, no light and is falling down and needs six servants, so it will probably kill us in the end'.

Betjeman spent the war as a press attaché in Dublin, and when it was finally over, he and Penelope returned to their beloved Berkshire where they had begun their married life in 1934. He worked mainly in London, mixing with writers, poets and assorted Oxbridge intellectuals - select members of a precious coterie. But he was most at home in the peace and tranquillity of the countryside - especially the Vale of the White Horse, then still within Berkshire. Betjeman loved to explore the downs on foot, while Penelope galloped along the Ridgeway on Moti, her Arab mare.

The Betjemans' love for this spectacular downland country remained undimmed when they moved to Farnborough. During the six years he lived in the village, Betjeman was typically productive in his work output. His collection of verse New Bats in Old Belfries was published in 1945, and in 1948 his Selected Poems won the Heinemann Award for Literature. At the same time, he worked on Murray's Architectural Guide for Berkshire, published in 1949.

The Betjemans moved to Wantage in 1951. It wasn't far away, and here he continued to indulge his love of the English countryside. In a TV interview in 1984, the year he died, Betjeman said that 'poetry makes life worth living', believing that the greatest thing he had done in his own life was to use his eyes and his feelings.

While you're there

Make a point of looking at the west window in Farnborough's All Saints Church, dedicated to the memory of John Betjeman. The window, which depicts the tree of life, was designed by Betjeman's friend John Piper, executed by Joseph Nuttgens and placed here by the 'Friends of Friendless Churches'. Have a look at the village of West Ilsley, noted for its horse-racing connections and lines of pretty cottages. The church has a handwritten record of those who fell in the First and Second World Wars. Opposite the pub is a striking gazebo, erected by the villagers to mark the new millennium. Look out, too, for the attractively designed parish paths map.

Where to eat and drink

Overlooking the cricket ground in West Ilsley, the Harrow is a charming village pub. Inside is an attractive open-plan bar, with a menu offering quality food and imaginatively prepared dishes. For something simpler, you might like to try ham, egg and chips or, if you only want a snack, sample one of the filled baguettes.

What to look for

Once or twice on this walk, you'll come across voluntary restraint signs, requesting motorists not to indulge in off-road driving. Many cross-country routes have become fragile as a result of this activity and campaigners are attempting to stamp it out.