Ellastone and itsFictional Past

Ellastone, near the Derbyshire border to the south west of Ashbourne, is known for its literary and its musical associations, both of which involve people named George - or so it would seem. The first is George Eliot, author of - among others - Silas Marner (1861) and Middlemarch (1871). Eliot's first novel Adam Bede is based on the village of Ellastone; in the book it is referred to as Hayslope, while Staffordshire is named Loamshire. When it was first published in 1859, by a completely unknown author, a number of impostors tried to claim authorship of the book. Only then was it revealed that George Elliot was a nom de plume for Marian Evans, who wrote for the prestigious Westminster Review.

The scandal that broke when it was discovered that George Eliot was a woman was exacerbated by the fact that she was also having an extra-marital affair with George Henry Lewis, her editor. Unable to divorce his faithless wife, George Henry entered into a common-law marriage with George Eliot. Polite Victorian society was far too conservative for such sordid behaviour, and the author was ostracised by her family and friends. This rejection became one of the themes of her next novel, The Mill on the Floss, published in 1860.

As for Adam Bede, its success then, as now, lay in Eliot's ability to reflect everyday life in her characters and the worlds they inhabited. Shunning the romanticism prevalent in the first half of the 19th century she was one of the first writers to insist on realism, believing that novels should reflect not only the real world, but also some underlying moral purpose above and beyond the entertainment to be had from a good read. In Adam Bede, the hero is thought to have been based heavily on Marian's own father, and in amongst a tragic love story - interlaced with rich descriptions of rural life - lies the novel's central theme, that selflessness is the secret of happiness.

The second George to find inspiration in Ellastone was George Frideric Handel (1685-1759), who was later described by Beethoven as the 'the greatest composer who ever lived'. Handel's most famous work is arguably The Messiah, which he composed in a furious 24 days while staying with friends at Calwich Abbey in 1741 (Calwich Abbey is passed in the early stages of the walk).

The Messiah was first performed, in aid of charity, in Dublin a year later, where it was met with rapturous applause. Some years later, King George II was so moved on hearing the Hallelujah Chorus that he rose to his feet; the audience duly followed his example and the tradition remains today, even in the absence of royalty.

Where to eat and drink

The Duncombe Arms in Ellastone serves good food and traditional beers, bar snacks, desserts and ice creams, 12-9pm, seven days a week.

While you're there

Ashbourne is a picturesque and predominantly Georgian market town near the edge of the Peak District, and is well worth a visit. Market days are Thursday and Saturday, but its best tradition is surely the Royal Shrovetide Football Match, when the Up'ards (those from north of the Henmore Brook) play the Down'ards (those from the south) using a pitch where the goals are 3 miles (4.8km) apart. The game is played with a specially made and painted ball, and can last until 10pm, flowing back and forth through the town.

What to look for

Sadly, little remains of the abbey - founded in 1148 - where Handel once penned his greatest work, and not much remains of Calwich Hall, which was built in its place. All that can be seen today is a disused stable block and a fishing temple by the lake.