Edinburgh's Murky Secrets

Edinburgh is often thought of as an extremely respectable, rather genteel city. But as you'll find out in this walk through the city's ancient heart - the medieval Old Town - it has a darker, more mysterious side to its nature.

The Old Town was the original city and was enclosed by city walls, which protected it from the ravages of conflict - but also stopped it from expanding. This meant that as the population grew, the city became increasingly overcrowded - and was at one time the most densely populated city in Europe. The only solution was to build upwards. People lived in towering tenements known as 'lands', with the wealthy taking the rooms at the bottom, the poorer classes living at the top. Its main street, the Royal Mile, became a complicated maze of narrow 'wynds' or alleyways, which gradually deteriorated into a slum. Cleanliness wasn't a priority and residents habitually threw their rubbish into the street - as well as the contents of their chamber pots. When Dr Johnson stayed in the city with his friend James Boswell, he wrote that they had been 'assailed by the evening effluvia' while walking home from a tavern one night.

Eventually the tenements became so overcrowded that the decision was made to burrow into the soft sandstone beneath the Royal Mile and create a new network of underground streets and dwellings. It was a subterranean slum. People lived here until the 19th century, when social reforms finally improved conditions in the Old Town and many of the tunnels were sealed. Gradually the secret city disappeared from memory. It wasn't until late in the 20th century that one of these old habitations was opened to the public. Called Mary King's Close, it is full of atmosphere and, as you might expect, is said to be haunted.

There are more dark secrets in the Grassmarket, where the body-snatchers Burke and Hare used to lure their victims before murdering them. They then sold the bodies to a local surgeon who used them in his research. Then there was Deacon Brodie, the seemingly respectable town councillor who had a secret nocturnal life as a criminal and gambler - and was eventually hanged. He was the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Dr Jekyll - who turned into Mr Hyde, the vicious werewolf, at night. With a history and atmosphere like this, it is hardly surprising that crime writer Ian Rankin sets his Inspector Rebus novels in Edinburgh. He often uses gory historical events in his tales, and has plenty to choose from - even an act of cannibalism which took place in the old Scottish Parliament (Set in Darkness, 2000). As Rankin says of Edinburgh - 'It's a very secretive place.

While you're there

Edinburgh Castle dominates the city. Built on an volcano plug, it dates back to the 12th century, although there was a hill fort there long before that. You can see the Honours of Scotland here, the name given to the Scottish Crown Jewels, as well as the Stone of Destiny. The castle was the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots' son James - who became James VI of Scotland and later James I of England.

Where to eat and drink

You're spoilt for choice in the city. There are lots of atmospheric pubs dotted around the Old Town so you certainly won't get thirsty. If you prefer tea and cake then try Plaisir du Chocolat (they've got umpteen types of hot chocolate and gorgeous cakes) or Clarinda's, an excellent traditional tea shop - both at the Holyrood end of the Royal Mile. Also good is Elephant House, a relaxed, studenty café on George IV Bridge.

What to look for

It's well worth stopping to explore St Giles' Cathedral, the main cathedral in Scotland. It was here that John Knox launched the Reformation in Scotland. Look out for the plaque to Jenny Geddes, who threw a stool at the minister during a service. She was furious because he had tried to introduce the English prayer book into Scottish services.