Debenham Waddle

In 1778 a young man left Suffolk to seek his fortune, but he never forgot the place where he grew up. When William Franks opened his first small haberdashery shop in Wigmore Street in London, he named it Debenhams after his home town. Before long he had established a chain of upmarket stores specialising in fine silks and cottons and in 1905 the first Debenhams department store opened in London. The company now has more than 100 stores across Britain but few of their customers are aware of the origins of the name.

Debenham, near the source of the River Deben, is one of those places whose past has largely been forgotten. In Saxon times, this was where the East Anglian kings held court, and there are accounts of a great battle against the marauding Danes at Blood Field to the north of the town. In the 14th century, Debenham was one of the finest of the wool towns, and the evidence is there to see in the handsome timber-framed merchants' houses that line the High Street. Yet these days, stuck out in the middle of Suffolk, away from the coast, the main roads and the busy towns, Debenham is little more than a village. The fledgling river trickles along the streets and occasional tourists pass through to visit the teapot pottery (PWhile You're There) on their way to Framlingham Castle and the coast.

This walk takes you into the green lanes around Debenham, through rich agricultural country where barley and wheat are grown. Part of the walk is along an old packhorse route that delights in the name of Waddlegoose Lane. The other local name for this path is Waddledickie Lane, 'dickie' being the Suffolk dialect for donkey.

The longer walk takes you to Earl Soham, a charming village hidden away in a valley along the old Roman road. Many people stop here just to visit the pub, which sells beer from the village brewery. The brewery is housed in new premises alongside the village shop, which offers a fine range of local produce including organic cider and apple juice from Aspall Hall near Debenham. Aspall is one of the oldest family firms in England, founded by Clement Chevallier in 1728 and still run by the eighth generation of the Chevallier family. The business has remained on the same site throughout its history and the original apple press and stone trough are still at Aspall Hall.

Go easy on the beer and cider, though, or you really will be waddling back along Waddlegoose Lane?

While you're there

Tony Carter makes wacky hand-painted teapots at his pottery in Low Road, Debenham, which is signposted from the High Street. Among his designs are teapots in the shape of windmills, lighthouses, beach huts, toilets and teddy bears. You can watch them being made from a viewing area and there is also a tea room where cream teas are served in original Carter pots.

What to look for

Look at the tower of St Mary Magdalene's Church in Debenham High Street. The lower part of the tower is Saxon, dating from the 11th century, while the upper part has a 14th-century flint covering over a 12th-century frame.

Where to eat and drink

Clio's Coffee Shop, on Debenham High Street, has delicious salads, soups, sandwiches, snacks and ice creams. Other options along the High Street are the Woolpack pub and a fish and chip shop. Alternatively, pick up a pork pie and other picnic food from F E Neave and Son, an old-style butcher that now incorporates a delicatessen.