Craster and a Ruined Castle

Standing in dramatic isolation on a craggy outcrop of whinstone cliff, and overlooking the vast emptiness of the North Sea, is one of England's most spectacular medieval ruins, Dunstanburgh Castle. Its lonely silhouette has inspired several artists, such as the great landscape painter J M W Turner, and the castle's atmospheric shell featured as a set in the film version of Hamlet (1991) starring Mel Gibson and Glenn Close.

Building began around 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, the richest and most powerful baron of his day and a fierce opponent of his cousin, Edward II. Edward, though, upset more than Lancaster at his court, by his devotion to Piers Gaveston, son of a Gascon nobleman. After Edward created Gaveston Earl of Cornwall, Lancaster mustered an opposition that contrived the execution of the King's favourite for treason. However, Lancaster's popularity amongst the other barons waned and he met his own sticky end after leaving the security of his Dunstanburgh stronghold to venture south in an ill-conceived alliance with the Scots. Meeting the King's forces at Boroughbridge, his army was routed and Lancaster captured. Rank brought him no protection from the regal wrath and, six days later, the King avenged the death of his friend Gaveston by the execution of Lancaster, also on charges of treason.

The outer curtain walls of the castle cover more than 9 acres (3.6ha), exploiting the natural defences of a high, sheer sea cliff to the north and a craggy coast to the east. The steep western flank of the outcrop presented its own difficulties for would-be assailants. Part of the original construction, the outer wall is 10ft (3m) thick in places and was entered by a massive three-storey gatehouse protected by two towers rising high above. A later Earl of Lancaster, John of Gaunt, converted this gatehouse into the keep and built an alternative entrance further along the outer wall, although of this nothing but the foundations remain.

Other additions included the Lilburn Tower on the western wall, serving as a look-out and defence against land attack from the north, whilst the south and east were protected by the Constable's and Egyncleugh towers. However, although the mighty fortress must have appeared an impregnable defence against the military strategy and war engines of its day, it was not designed to withstand the cannon that followed. The castle was besieged during the 1460s in the Wars of the Roses as the Yorkists moved to gain control in Northumberland and suffered a pounding at the hands of Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick. It was never re-fortified and quietly crumbled to become the splendid ruin seen today.

What to look for

Wandering through Craster, your nose is sure to lure you to Robinson's Smokehouse, where kipper-making has been a family business for four generations. Famed throughout the country, they are cured in a traditional manner and, although the herrings are no longer landed at Craster harbour, the kippers are as good as any you will find.

While you're there

The nearby Howick Estate has been held by the Grey family since 1319 and, although the 18th-century hall isn't open to the public, its beautiful grounds are. Woodland walks and formal gardens have been thoughtfully designed to capture attention throughout the seasons. From April until June there is a spectacular display of azalea, rhododendron and magnolia. Later, your attention is focussed upon herbaceous borders, which provide colour until the woodland and ornamental trees don their autumnal cloaks.

Where to eat and drink

It's not easy to resist the pervasive aroma of the smokehouse, where a small restaurant serves, not only kippers, but other local delicacies too. Alternatively, try the village pub, the Jolly Fisherman, well-respected and especially famous for its crab sandwiches. The café by the car park is also conveniently sited for a range of hot and cold snacks.