Around the Lakes of the Cotswold Water Park

By their very nature, ancient landscapes and historic architecture evolve very slowly, changing little from one century to another. Can they resist the demands of a brasher era? In the Cotswolds the answer to this question is essentially 'yes'. Here building restrictions are strict - even, sometimes, draconian. The result, however, is a significant area of largely unspoilt English countryside; sometimes, thoughtful development has even enhanced an otherwise lacklustre skyline. The Cotswold Water Park, located in and around old gravel pits, is an example of this.

Gravel has been worked in the upper Thames Valley, where the water table is close to the surface, since the 1920s. The removal of gravel leads to the creation of lakes and in the areas around South Cerney and between Fairford and Lechlade there are now some 4,000 acres (1,620ha) of water, in about 100 lakes. They provide an important wetland habitat for a variety of wildlife. Most of these lakes have been turned over to recreational use of one sort or another, being a perfect place for game and coarse fishing, board sailing, walking, boating of various kinds, riding and sundry other leisure activities. Interestingly, this has been what is now called a private/public enterprise. The landscaping has not just been a case of letting nature take over where the gravel excavators left off. The crane-grabs that were used for excavation in the 1960s, for example, left the gravel pits with vertical sides and therefore with deep water right up to the shoreline. As it happens, some forms of aquatic life flourish under these conditions, but in other lakes the shoreline has been graded to create a gentler slope - this harmonises better with the essentially flat landscape in this part of the Cotswolds and is better suited to the needs of swimmers and children. In the same way, trees have been planted and artificial hills have been constructed to offer both shelter and visual relief. Old brick railway bridges have been preserved. Finally, a style of waterside architecture has been developed to attract people to live here. It continues to evolve, just as the surrounding countryside has done for centuries.

The walk begins in South Cerney, by the River Churn, only 4 miles (6.4km) from the source of the Thames. Look inside the Norman church for the exceptional carving on the 12th-century rood. Later the walk takes you through Cerney Wick, a smaller village on the other side of the gravel workings. The highlight here is an 18th-century 'roundhouse', used by the workers on the now disused Thames and Severn Canal.

Where to eat and drink

The walk passes the Crown in Cerney Wick. There are also several pubs in South Cerney - the Old George and the Eliot Arms in Clarks Hay, and the Royal Oak on the High Street.

What to look for

Disused transport systems feature greatly in this walk. For much of it you will be beside or close to the old Thames and Severn Canal, or following the route of the old Andoversford railway line. The line linked Cheltenham and Swindon between 1891 and 1961. The roundhouse seen on the far side of the old canal as you approach Cerney Wick was used by lock keepers and maintenance engineers. This design was a distinctive feature of the Thames and Severn Canal. Even the windows were rounded to afford the occupants maximum visibility of their stretch of canal. The downstairs would have been used as a stable, the middle storey as a living area and the upstairs held sleeping accomodation. The flat roof was also put to use collecting rainwater for the house's water supply.

While you're there

Visit often-overlooked Cricklade. The town centre is dominated by 17th- and 18th-century houses, overseen by the bulky tower of the church, visible for miles around. Unusually, it is dedicated to the Breton St Samson.