Around Roman Rockbourne

Pevsner claims the village street in Rockbourne is one of the prettiest in Hampshire. This is certainly true, for the long, gently winding street in this peaceful and sheltered village, tucked in rolling downland on the borders with Wiltshire and Dorset, is lined with Tudor and Georgian houses and splendid thatched and timber-framed cottages.

By far the oldest known homestead is the Roman Villa, discovered south of the village by a farmer out ferreting in 1942. He unearthed oyster shells and tiles and the significance of the find was recognised by local antiquarian AT Morley Hewitt, whose first excavation hole revealed a mosaic floor. It was not until 1956, after Morley Hewitt had bought the land, that full-scale excavation began. Only then was it realised that the Rockbourne site was to be one of the most interesting Roman villa complexes to be discovered in the country.

The Romans invaded Britain in ad 43 and quickly established roads, forts and towns. In the countryside, notably in southern England where the soils were fertile, they established farm estates with a villa at the centre. Villa architecture changed over the 400 years of Roman occupation. Simple circular houses were modified with the addition of wings, corridors, verandahs and courtyards, and housed heated bath suites and various farming activities.

Excavations at Rockbourne identified over 70 rooms, including the pre-Roman circular hut and elaborate bath houses with underfloor heating. A treasure trove of Roman remains were also uncovered, in particular mosaics with geometric patterning, hoards of coins, elaborate ironwork, intricate jewellery, and shards of pottery with graffiti ranging from a simple symbol to a string of letters. Morley Hewitt's detailed study of the site has revealed much about the everyday life of the Roman Britons at Rockbourne. Sadly, the excavations have been filled in for their own protection, but you can see the outlines of the rooms and buildings marked out in the grass, the hypocaust heating systems and some mosaics.

The walk takes in the neighbouring village of Whitsbury, where foundations of a Roman building, containing a hypocaust and New Forest pottery of the 2nd and 3rd century ad, were found in a field between the church and Glebe House.

There is evidence of even earlier habitation in Whitsbury. At the northern end of the village, by Whitsbury Stud, is a fine example of a fortified Iron Age camp. Whitsbury Castle covers 16 acres (6.5ha) and is surrounded by a triple circle of great banks with two deep ditches. Re-occupied after the Romans departed, it was from here that native Britons probably engaged the advancing Saxons in battle, holding them at the River Avon for over 50 years. The Castle Ditches formed part of a group of fortifications, with Clearbury Ring and Old Sarum, guarding these lonely uplands.

Where to eat and drink

Both Rockbourne and Whitsbury have good pubs. The Rose & Thistle in Rockbourne is a thatched 17th-century building, with an unspoilt and tastefully furnished interior. Expect a relaxing atmosphere and imaginative pub food. In Whitsbury, the Cartwheel is noted for its range of real ales, home-cooked food and peaceful garden.

What to look for

Interesting memorials to the Coote family, who lived at West Park to the south of the village, a large house that was demolished in 1945, can be seen in St Andrew's Church, Rockbourne. Lieutenant-General Sir Eyre Coote was the most famous, distinguishing himself as one of Clive of India's officers at the Battle of Plassey, in Bengal, in 1757. With only 3,000 men Coote advised Clive to attack an army of 55,000. The British won and successfully took control of Bengal. He is buried in the church and a 100ft (30m) monument was erected in West Park by the East India Company in 1828 to commemorate him. You will clearly see the monument on the early part of this walk.

While you're there

Visit the museum at the Roman Villa, which displays many of the fascinating artefacts found on the site. It also explains the development of the site, how the evidence was collected and analysed, and describes what life would have been like on this large Roman farm over 1,600 years ago through a series of themed displays.