Ardstinchar Castle

Ballantrae once had quite a reputation as a place where strange and gruesome events took place. If the ruins of Ardstinchar Castle could speak they would tell a tale of greed and avarice, of cousins involved in a deadly feud and a series of events designed to wipe out one branch of Ayrshire's most powerful family, the Kennedys.

An ancient manuscript lies in a dusty basement in an Edinburgh library. It was written at the time of these events and, although the author remains anonymous, it is believed to be the work of John Mure of Auchindrain House near Ayr. It was the writing of S R Crocket, minister turned novelist, who brought this story to the attention of a wider public when he took it and used it as the basis of his novel The Grey Man. This is a work of fiction but woven through the tale is the factual thread of the tragic events which occurred in Ayrshire during the turbulent years at the end of the 16th century.

Although Crocket's novel opens with a fiction, the burning of Ardstincher Castle, he uses this event to outline the origins of the Kennedy feud. This was an attempt by the Earl of Cassillis, the senior Kennedy, to acquire the lands of Crossraguel Abbey. All efforts to persuade Allan Stewart, the Commendator of Crossraguel having failed, Cassillis seized him, carried him off to his stronghold at Dunure Castle and there in the Black Vault of Dunure 'roasted the hapless Stewart over a slow fire until he signed.' However, Stewart's brother in law, Kennedy of Bargany, rescued him and although Cassillis was brought before the High Court and made to compensate Stewart he was allowed to keep the lands he had obtained. Cassillis was thereafter intent on destroying the house of Bargany and various plots, intrigues and blood lettings took place culminating in the murder of Bargany by Cassillis near Maybole in 1601.

Bargany was interred in the family vault at Ballantrae and, although Cassillis escaped justice again, Bargany's ally John Mure, the Grey Man of Crocket's tale, took revenge by having an uncle of Cassillis assassinated. Suspicion immediately fell on Mure but he had an alibi. However, there was one witness who could tie Mure to the crime. A young boy had delivered a letter from the intended victim to Mure who read it then told the boy to return it and say he had not found Mure. To protect himself, Mure and his son strangled the hapless boy and threw him into the sea near Girvan. The boys' body washed ashore just a few days later, both Mures were arrested, tried and found guilty of that murder and also of being involved in the assassination. Sentenced to death for their crimes, father and son were both executed at Edinburgh in 1611, thus ending the feud and leaving Cassillis once more free of any retribution.

Where to eat and drink

The Café on the Main Street has been a favoured hang out of the young people of the village for what seems like centuries. It's a cosy wee place with an ambience stuck somewhere in the mid-20th century. Snacks, like rolls and soup can be eaten in or purchased as a take away. For something a shade more up-market try the Royal Hotel.

What to look for

The remaining standing stones of Garleffin formed part of what was a stone circle and it is possible to see the outline by crop marks which are visible from the main Ballantrae to Stranraer road above this hamlet. Local people may tell you that this was once a place of worship for ancient druids but there is no evidence to support that story.

While you're there

Head along the shore road to Girvan but branch off to the left at Bennane Lea and keep going until you come to a large brick wall built into the rocks to form a cave. This was once home to Snib Scott a local hermit. His real name was Henry Torbett and he once worked in a bank but for some reason gave it up for a life of solitude. There's a memorial to him on the foreshore opposite the cave.