A View from Deacon Hill

The county boundary between Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire is complex along the chalk ridge traversed by the Icknield Way. Despite simplification in the late 19th century, Hexton to the west and Pirton still extend deep into Bedfordshire, sandwiching Shillington, which climbs between them up to Deacon Hill and the Icknield Way. The top of Deacon Hill, just north of the Icknield Way, stands at 567ft (172m) above sea level, giving superb views over the lowlands of Bedfordshire. The land is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). Rare chalkland flora and fauna can be found amid its sheep-cropped pasture. Although not as high as the western Chilterns, the chalk hills here between Pirton and west into Bedfordshire are spectacularly cut into by combes and dry valleys. The escarpment presents a deeply corrugated edge, bare or tree-clad, to the claylands below.

Pirton village lies below the chalk hills, in the lowlands whose streams drain north east into the River Hiz near Henlow. The village is centred on Toot Hill, a 12th-century motte and bailey castle. It is one of many so-called 'adulterine' or unlicenced castles that were erected during the Civil Wars of Stephen's reign (1135-54). Their purpose was to offer protection from marauding armies during the anarchy. Toot Hill was built by the de Limesy family, the lords of the manor. Its dismantling, along with many others, was ordered by Henry II after he became King in 1154. There are baileys or ramparted enclosures on each side of the motte - the church is within the east one. 'Toot' means a lookout place, so the mound had a useful later life, although its now only 25ft (7.6m) high. The west bailey is mostly built-up, including the Motte and Bailey pub. South of the castle are other earthworks, one of which is a former lane, Lads Orchard Lane, abandoned in the 19th century. To the west was Chipping Green, now Great Green, so presumably the village had a 'chipping' or market. The church is mostly Norman, but the crossing tower was so dilapidated that, in 1876, it had to be rebuilt in replica. The attractive village has some good examples of timber-framed houses and cottages. These include Walnut Tree Farm, which has a complex of vast, weatherboarded barns that have been converted to houses.

On the downs, ½ mile (800m) south west of Pirton, is High Down House. It was built for the Dockwra family in 1599, then added to in the early 17th century. Picturesque, and set in remnants of parkland, it survived plans to replace it with a Georgian mansion.

What to look for

Little Offley house, east of The Hoo, is all that remains of a deserted medieval village in the manor of Welles. All you see as you walk past is a wonderfully rambling Tudor mansion, refaced in brick in 1695. According to Sir Henry Chauncy, writing in 1700, the village had 'consisted of divers Houses, as is evident by the Marks of Ancient Foundations, often digg'd up there'.

Where to eat and drink

In Pirton High Street you will find the Fox. Near by is Pirton Village Stores, for chocolate, cakes and soft drinks. The Motte and Bailey pub is on Great Green to the west of Toot Hill. In Lilley the Lilley Arms is a welcome source of refreshment at the point furthest from your start in Pirton.

While you're there

South east of Pirton, a visit to the historic town of Hitchin is most rewarding. It has a long, triangular, medieval market place, which has been substantially encroached and built over. East of the market place is St Mary's Church, mostly rebuilt after an earthquake in 1298. For more information visit the Hitchin Museum and Art Gallery, Paynes Park.