A Rutland Waterside Walk

That England's smallest county contains its biggest stretch of inland water is impressive enough, but in fact Rutland Water's 3,100 acres (1,255ha) make it one of the largest artificial lakes in the whole of western Europe.

Work began in 1973 with the flooding of the Gwash Valley and abandonment of the two villages of Nether and Middle Hambleton, but Anglia Water's reservoir is about much more than simply the supply of drinking water. Sailing and windsurfing are very popular, while fishermen are to be found on the shores and out in boats in virtually all weathers. There are picnic sites along the northern edge, a museum at the preserved church at Normanton on the southern shore, and afternoon cruises on the Rutland Belle that plies the water daily between May and September. A 25-mile (40km) off-road cycling route encompasses the whole of Rutland Water, and cycle hire is available at Whitwell and Normanton in the summer months.

The nature reserve at the far western end of Rutland Water is managed by Leicestershire and Rutland Wildlife Trust, and your first port of call should be the Anglian Water Birdwatching Centre at Egleton. From here you can obtain a permit to walk to the 15 different hides that dot the secluded bays and artificially created lagoons, or go on to visit Lyndon Nature Reserve on the southern side of Manton Bay. Rutland Water is one of the most important centres for wildfowl in Britain - as many as 23,500 ducks have been recorded on a single winter's day, and a total of 250 different species of birds have been seen since 1975.

Ducks such as pochard, teal, gadwall and shoveler are a common sight, while waders like redshank and sandpipers are frequent visitors. An hour or two in a hide and your list will probably include terns, lapwing, cormorants, grebes, and so on, plus perhaps a more unusual sighting such as merganser or godwit.

However, there is one rare fish-eating bird that has had the twitchers fumbling at their binocular cases over the past few years. In 1996 a programme was initiated to translocate young osprey chicks from Scotland to Rutland, and since then several of these majestic birds of prey have returned from their hazardous African migration to set up home at Rutland - the first time ospreys have nested in England in over 150 years. However, the long-term fate of the Rutland ospreys is far from secure, since the birds mate for life and have very few chicks, but with careful protection and gentle encouragement the outlook for the so-called fish eagles is hopeful. The birds are generally present throughout the summer months and, although visible from hides, there is also a CCTV camera that relays close-up pictures of the birds back to the visitor centre at Egleton.

Where to eat and drink

The Finch's Arms at Upper Hambleton is an elegant public house where the emphasis is on high-quality bar food and restaurant meals, and from the back terrace there are great views out across the northern sweep of Rutland Water. Booking is advisable for peak times. A full range of cafés and pubs is to be found in Oakham, 3 miles (4.8km) away.

While you're there

Just to the south of Rutland Water is the picturesque village of Wing, where apart from two decent pubs there is a most unusual and historic maze. Cut into the roadside turf near the recreation ground, Wing Maze is based on an 11-ringed design often found on the floors of medieval French cathedrals. Wing itself once had a monastery, and it's possible that the monks may have followed the lines of the maze, stopping to pray at certain points.

While you're there

It's said that there's no higher land between Upper Hambleton and the Wash and, although modest in height, the hilltop position of the village of course spared it from the watery fate that claimed its neighbours. Among the views from the peninsula is Burley on the Hill, a striking mansion on a densely wooded ridge to the north that was built for David Finch, Earl of Nottingham, between 1694 and 1705.