A Pilgrimage to Waverley

The glory of this walk lies right at the start, just a stone's throw across the fields from the car park. For over 400 years Waverley Abbey stood in this peaceful loop of the northern River Wey and, from here, its abbots wielded enormous religious and political influence. It all began in 1128 when William Gifford, the Bishop of Winchester, founded Waverley on 60 acres (24ha) of farmland. This was the first Cistercian abbey in England, and the original community of 12 monks came with Abbot John from L'Aumone in France. They lived an austere life, devoted to hard manual labour and unceasing prayer.

Construction started at once, although it was another 150 years before the abbey church was finally completed. Meanwhile the Cistercians expanded rapidly throughout Britain, and by 1132 there were great abbeys at Tintern, Fountains and Rievaulx. Waverley itself was the springboard for 13 new monasteries; in each case, an abbot and 12 monks, representing Christ and his 12 disciples, went forward as the nucleus of the new community.

At Waverley, as elsewhere, the monks had a significant impact on the local economy as they converted the surrounding forests into grazing and arable fields. They began Surrey's wool industry, and extended their hospitality from the humblest to the greatest.The lavish scale of monastic entertaining seems positively decadent, but these were exceptions to the harsh, everyday routine. Monks rose at 2am for Matins, spending their time in meditation, study, and manual work before retiring as early as 5:30pm in winter. The day was punctuated by eight services, and by the midday meal of vegetables, bread and beer.

The monks ate in silence in the refectory, accompanied by readings from scripture. You'll see the remains of this building with its 13th-century vaulting during your visit; look, too, for the walls of the Chapter House, where the Abbot presided over the daily business meeting. Of the church itself, only the ground plan and some sections of the chancel walls remain to give you an idea of the scale of the building. The monastic community continued until it was suppressed by Henry VIII in 1536. The estate subsequently changed hands many times; over the years, the buildings were quarried for stone, and many wagon loads found their way into the construction of nearby Loseley House.

Where to eat and drink

Half way round your walk, relax in the whitewashed Barley Mow, delightfully situated overlooking Tilford's village green. There's cricket here in the summer - but you'll find a good choice of bar snacks and restaurant meals (except Sunday and Monday evenings).

While you're there

Spread out over 10 acres (3.7ha) of field and woodland, Tilford's Rural Life Centre presents a vivid recreation of local country life over the last century and a half. You'll see realistic settings including everything from agriculture and hop growing to the rural post office and wheelwright's workshop. There's also a shop, café, picnic area and children's playground, and you can ride the Old Kiln Light Railway on Sundays and bank holidays. Open Wednesday to Sunday (and bank holidays), April to September.

What to look for

Beside the green at Tilford, close to the Farnham road bridge, the Tilford Oak is said to be at least 800 years old. William Cobbett thought it the finest tree that he ever saw in his life, but now its branches have been lopped and the trunk is patched with iron sheets. In 1822, Cobbett claims that the tree was a full 30ft (10m) round, but his legendary enthusiasm may have run away with him. When the writer Eric Parker measured it in July 1907, its circumference was 24ft 9in (7.5m); he returned in 1934, and found it exactly 1ft (30cm) more. Just opposite this mighty specimen stands a mere sapling, planted in 1902 to commemorate Edward VII's coronation. At the opposite end of the green, its neighbour dates from Queen Victoria's Jubilee in 1897.