A Leisurely Circuit of Culross

Walking through Culross is a bit like stepping on to a film set. With its neat cobbled streets and immaculately preserved buildings, it gives you the impression that you've stepped back in time. The pretty little houses, with their red pantiled roofs and crow-stepped gables, give the place a Flemish look - a typical feature of Scottish architecture of this period. Yet despite its neatly manicured appearance, Culross owes its origins to industry - coal mining to be precise.

The mining industry was started in the 13th century by the Cistercian monks of Culross Abbey, and a flourishing trade soon developed. Coal production allowed a salt-panning industry to grow up, with fires from inferior quality coal being used to evaporate sea water. By the 16th century Culross was one of the largest ports in Scotland, exporting both coal and salt to the Low Countries and the Baltic. On their return journeys they carried red pantiles as ballast - which were used to give the town's roofs their distinctive appearance. There are reminders of these days throughout the town. The area known as the Sandhaven, for instance, which you pass at the end of this walk, was once the harbour. As you pass it, take a look at the Tron, where officials would weigh export cargoes to assess their tax - you can still see the stone platform that supported the weighing beam.

Trade brought prosperity to the town, as you can see from the many substantial buildings that dot the streets. Most striking of all is Culross Palace, a beautiful ochre-coloured town house. It was built in 1597 by Sir George Bruce, the local bigwig who owned both the mines and the salt pans - the pine-panelled walls, decorative paintings and period furniture reflect the lifestyle of a rich merchant of the period. If you go on a tour, look out for the Flemish-style paintings on the wooden ceiling in the Painted Chamber.

Eventually the industries in Culross died out and the village went to sleep, its period features preserved like those of an insect trapped in amber. However, in 1923 the palace was bought by the National Trust for Scotland, which then went on to purchase more properties in the village.

As you near the end of this walk, do make time to explore. Walking down the hill you'll pass The House with the Evil Eyes - so named because of the shape of its windows - then the church and the remains of Culross Abbey, before coming into the centre of the village. Look for the street known as The Haggs or Stinking Wynd. If you look carefully you'll see that the centre is higher than the edges. This was 'the crown o' the causie', the place where the local toffs walked. The unfortunate hoi polloi had to walk in the gutters - which would have been swimming with - well, you can imagine.

While you're there

Dunfermline Abbey, in nearby Dunfermline, dates back to the 11th century. The only remains of the original church are the foundations as it was ravaged by raiders many times. It is the burial place of six Scottish kings, as well as Robert the Bruce who is buried beneath the pulpit.

Where to eat and drink

There's a café in the Bessie Bar Hall in the palace where you can get home-made cakes and snacks and hot drinks. Alternatively you can go a little way along the coast to Limekilns to have a drink in the Ship Inn, which featured in Robert Louis Stevenson's Kidnapped.

What to look for

The Town House in the Sandhaven was built in 1626 and used to be the seat for local government. The ground floor used to be a prison for debtors, while the attic was used to imprison 'witches'. On one of the houses near by is an elegant wall-mounted sundial - a somewhat unusual feature, given the chilly nature of Scottish summers.