The Meandering Exe at Brampford Speke

There is a secluded piece of Devonshire countryside lying just north of Exeter. Few would think of turning off the A377 Exeter to Crediton road to have a look around - but here is a beautiful area of undulating woods and farmland on the edge of the Exe Valley. Brampford Speke is just one of the pleasant cob and thatch villages that lies tucked away here, situated on a low cliff of red sandstone overhanging the River Exe as it meanders lazily through its flood plain. The Victorian writer George Gissing described the village:

'I have discovered a village called Brampford Speke on the Exe, which I seriously think is one of the most perfect I ever saw. One imagines that some lord of the manor must exert himself to keep it in a picturesque state.'

That impression still holds true today - you almost feel as if the river is relieved to reach Brampford Speke and is taking a rest after a long journey from its source. This is high on Exmoor to the north, from where it tumbles down through deeply wooded combes, past the Norman castle at Tiverton, under the bridge at Bickleigh and onto the flood plain.

As you stroll along the banks of the Exe you may notice a number of places where it appears that the river has changed - or is going to change - its course. This is a common flood plain feature. The erosive power of the water alters as the river swings through the level plain, and starts to cut deeply into the outer bends of its course. At the same time silt and alluvial debris carried in its waters are deposited on the inner bends where the current is less strong. As time goes on the process intensifies until eventually the river cuts across the bend and carves a new course, leaving behind a curved 'ox-bow' lake, separate from the river.

The fertile red soils of the Exe Valley, derived from Permian sandstones, provide good arable farmland and meadows, the best agricultural land in Devon. The area has been thickly populated and farmed for centuries. At Upton Pyne a group of Bronze Age burial barrows has been dated to around 2000 bc. It was recorded in the Domesday Book (1086) that of 99 mills in Devon, three-quarters were located in or east of the Exe Valley. This was an important cloth-making area in the 14th century, with a large number of fulling ('tucking') mills (where woven cloth was flattened to improve its appearance). A tax return of 1332 recorded that 38 'tuckers' were sufficiently well off to pay tax, and that a large percentage came from this area.

What to look for

You're quite likely to get a sight of a grey heron during this walk. This large, but graceful, long-legged wader is unmistakable, but always exciting to see, whether waiting patiently for prey - which it swallows whole - near shallow water, or flying off with its neck drawn back and legs trailing. The heron can stand or perch without moving for long periods of time, and can grow to as much as 36in (91cm) tall.

Where to eat and drink

The Agricultural Inn (free house) in the centre of Brampford Speke welcomes families, serves very good food and has an attractive outdoor seating area. It is also the meeting point for Aerosaurus and Exeter Balloons, who muster here to decide on the best place to fly, depending on the weather conditions at the time.

While you're there

Have a day out in historic Exeter, 3 miles (4.8km) south of Brampford Speke. Although heavily damaged by bombing in May 1942, the city has much to recommend it. Situated at the lowest crossing point of the River Exe, the Romans established a settlement here - Isca - around ad 50, and traces of the original Roman walls (c ad 200) can be seen today. The Norman period is represented by Rougemont Castle (1068), and the superb cathedral and close (1114-33), with its intricately carved West Front and unique ribbed, vaulted ceiling above the nave. From the 10th to 18th centuries Exeter was a port of some significance, and the recently restored quay and associated wharves and warehouses provide an attractive setting for cafés and craft shops.