Living on the Edge at Ibberton

The Wessex Ridgeway is a long distance footpath that runs for 137 miles (220km) from Marlborough in Wiltshire across Dorset to the coastal town of Lyme Regis. The 62 miles (100km) of the Dorset section start at the high point of Ashmore. Although it was only completed in 1980, it follows, as far as possible, much older routes across the hills and downs. It is frequently criss-crossed by the routes in this book. This walk uses a good stretch of it, on the chalk ridge between Okeford Hill and Bulbarrow Hill.

The view from the Ridgeway at this point is captivating. You're 902 feet (275m) above sea level and from the viewing table you can identify the distant Blackdown and Quantock hills to the left, the symmetrical mound of Glastonbury Tor ahead, and, to your right, Shaftesbury and Cranborne Chase. Immediately below, beyond the steep bank of golden-flowered gorse, the patchwork fields of the Blackmoor Vale are spread out in all shades of green and brown, textured with clumps of trees and widely scattered dwellings and farms. Even today they are the little communities, linked by a network of hedges and lanes, which Thomas Hardy captured so well in his novels and poetry.

Tucked under the hill and spreading up its flank, Ibberton is a particular delight, a blend of stone, flint and thatch and old and new houses side by side. When I walked through the village some local people urged me to visit their church, describing it as somewhere very special. One of only three in the country dedicated to St Eustace, it sits high above the village. The church is reached by a steep, rocky path and has an enviable view over the valley. Its grey stone is silvered with lichen and the wall by the door leans alarmingly. Inside there is a tranquil atmosphere of light and space. Fragments of medieval glass splash gold in the otherwise plain leaded windows. There are no pews, but wooden chairs are ranged around, giving the feel that this is a well-used community space. Faded photographs show the church in a state of collapse during rebuilding in 1901, with its entire end wall down. There was also a wooden gallery still in existence around that time. A hollowed out millstone was once the only font.

The memorial to a young man killed in the First World War is on a touchingly human scale too, with a tiny painted portrait hanging on a pillar. He was Charles Hugh Plowman, the rector's younger son. He died in far-off Macedonia, leaving no mortal remains to be returned to his grieving family. With three other villagers, he is also remembered on the war memorial - the church clock. The villagers are right - it's a remarkable place.

Where to eat and drink

The 16th-century Crown Inn at Ibberton has a magnificent flagstone floor inside and sunny beer gardens outside. Its ancient, studded oak door opens to the tantalising smell of good food. Dogs are not allowed inside, but children are welcome under proper supervision.

What to look for

The waymarker for the Wessex Ridgeway is a green and white disc showing a two-legged, winged dragon called a wyvern, which is a symbol associated with the ancient kingdom of Wessex. The path reflects the route of an ancient, much longer highway called the Great Ridgeway that was once used to transport goods between Devon and the North Norfolk coast.

While you're there

Explore Ibberton more thoroughly by picking up a leaflet for the village's Millennium Path - you'll find them freely available in the pub and the church. The 2¼ mile (3.6km) pink-waymarked route takes you around the back lanes between the cottages. Stiles have been replaced by gates to make the going easier.