Exploring Upper Kentmere

From its source, high on the slopes of Mardale Ill Bell at the heart of Cumbria's eastern fells, the River Kent begins a journey through Kentmere, one of the country's loveliest valleys. Deep and narrow, it follows a gently sinuous course south for some 9 miles (14.5km) before breaking free to meander between the rolling hills beyond Staveley. In its higher reaches, the Kent is isolated from frenetic modern life, and there is a wonderful sense of remoteness as you wander below towering crags with often only yourself for company.

From earliest times, the dale has supported small communities who made a living by farming the confined valley bottoms and lower slopes. Perhaps the pickings were never very great, but it must still have been a tempting target for raiders (known as reivers) from the north, who could ride over the pass from Mardale, grab what livestock or other prizes they might find, and be away again before an alarm could be raised. Those who lived here would have had to defend themselves as best they could and, with little neighbouring help on which to call, the best protection was a strong refuge for family and stock.

The hall at Kentmere was built by the Gilpins around the 14th century, a square, battlemented tower rising over a vaulted basement. A narrow spiral staircase was the only access to the upper floors, a further obstacle to any aggressor who managed to burst through the heavily-barred door. With their cattle and sheep safely inside, the family could easily defend themselves against the light weapons carried by the raiders, who were not equipped to lay siege for anything more than a day or two.

The troubled times across the north of England continued after the defeat of the Scots at Flodden in 1513, and it was not until James VI of Scotland succeeded to the English throne, almost 100 years later, that the raiding way of life finally ended. However, a degree of security must have been felt in the valley before then, since a farmhouse was added to the pele in the 16th century and the tower became little more than an outhouse or barn.

Some of the hall's occupants have earned a reputation extending far beyond the lonely valley. Hugh Herd, who acquired the title of the 'Cork Lad of Kentmere', was a giant of a man. Born to a nun at Furness Abbey, he became a champion wrestler and served his King, Edward VI, in repelling invaders across the border with Scotland. Perhaps less deserving of praise was Richard Gilpin, who is said to have killed the last wild boar in England.

While you're there

The present village church dates mainly from the mid-19th century, when the expanding quarries brought new people into the valley. It is dedicated to Cuthbert, a 7th-century Northumbrian saint. Originally buried at Lindisfarne, the monks removed his relics after Vikings destroyed the abbey and the community wandered the North for over a century, perhaps stopping here awhile, before finally laying his body to rest at Durham.

What to look for

Although stone had long been taken for local building, quarrying only became commercially viable after the railway reached Staveley in 1847. The valley has a vein of fine Westmorland slate, and the next 50 years saw the industry expand with eight separate quarries being worked at one time. However, after 1918 cheaper slate from Wales and abroad eroded the markets, and the last workings finally closed in 1956.

Where to eat and drink

Maggs Howe, near the end of the walk, is open daily from lunchtime, serving delicious home-made snacks and cakes. For a pub, you'll have to go back down to Staveley, where both the Eagle and Child and the Duke William welcome families and serve bar meals. There's a good chippy too, open for lunches and teas from Tuesday to Saturday.