Breydon Water and Burgh Castle

Near the western reaches of Breydon Water there is a Roman fort, a wind pump owned by the National Trust and an atmospheric pub that is inaccessible to motor vehicles. However, there is an obstacle preventing you from freely wandering to and from these sites: the River Yare. At the start of the walk you will see the river begin to widen, until it forms the vast, silt-slippery flats of Breydon Water that lies between the Roman castle and the mill and pub, so the only way to see all three on foot is to walk around it!

This part of the Broads is perhaps the most mysterious and lonely of all, and the fact that few roads cross the marshes that radiate out from Breydon Water means that it is generally people-free. This suits birds very nicely, and the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) manages quite a large part of it, maintaining it as a nature reserve to encourage both rare and common species. Halvergate Marshes, to the west, is an alluvial basin that is home to shoveller, snipe, lapwing, yellow wagtails and redshank.

Berney Arms Mill is one of the most spectacular mills in the country. It is in perfect working order and stands some 70ft (21m) high, making it the tallest marsh mill in Norfolk or Suffolk. It was built in 1870 and now houses a small museum. Downstream is the Berney Arms, accessible only to people who walk or navigate the silty channels in their boats.

Gariannonum, or Burgh Castle, lies on the opposite shore of the river. Originally this would have commanded an imposing position looking towards Caister, but changes in the sea level and silting up have relegated it to a quiet part of the river. It was built in the 3rd century ad to defend the Roman province from marauding Saxons, and was an impressive fortress. Even today, visitors will see walls rising to more than 15ft (5m). This stronghold is said to have been the place where the Irish missionary St Fursey arrived in England in about ad 630. One of the first things he did was to found a monastery, which he called Cnobheresburg, although nothing remains of this today.

Later, Fursey removed himself to France, so that he could become a proper hermit. He founded a monastery near Paris and when he died, his body declined to rot. He was declared a saint, and various parts of his corpse toured the country until most were destroyed during the French Revolution. The head was said to have survived, though, and is still an object of reverence in Péronne in Picardy.

Where to eat and drink

The Church Farm Freehouse serves lunches and evening meals and is the venue for occasional charity concerts by the Water Rats, a local jazz band. The pub has an extensive area at the back for children (fenced), and pleasant gardens overlooking the marshes. For those with a boat or time to walk, the Berney Arms across the river also offers good food.

While you're there

Great Yarmouth to the east is a large seaside resort. There is a Pleasure Beach with more than 70 rides and attractions. Pleasurewood Hills, between Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, is a huge leisure park with rides and animal shows. Less glitzy are nearby Fritton Lake Countryworld and Somerleyton Hall and Gardens, with its famous maze and a miniature railway.

What to look for

More rare birds were once shot on Breydon Water than anywhere else in Britain, but it is now a nature reserve comprising more than 1,100 acres (440ha). Avocets and spoonbills visit annually and specially constructed tern rafts have attracted common terns and the occasional Mediterranean gull. Also look for the broad-billed sandpiper between May and early June. Twite, snow and Lapland buntings and hen harriers can be seen in winter.