Barbury Castle

Some of the finest scenery in southern England can be found on the chalk downlands of Wiltshire, in particular the Marlborough Downs, which extend south from Swindon across the Vale of Pewsey to the northern flanks of Salisbury Plain. These expansive landscapes, with their wide skies and smooth ridges interspersed with long shallow combes, have captured the imagination of many writers, including Richard Jefferies. About 150 acres (61ha) of open land on Barbury Down have been designated a country park by Wiltshire County Council.

The archaeology of the area is renowned, with a mass of ancient field monuments, including stone circles, post-Roman earthworks, field systems, burial mounds and hill forts, littering the landscape. During the Iron Age, a succession of tribes invaded Britain, many of them settling on the North Wessex Downs where they constructed dramatic hill forts on the downland escarpments, away from the threat of advancing enemies. One of the best known hill forts in southern England provides the focal point of the country park and our walk.

Barbury Castle is a well-defined oval of about 12 acres (5ha), with entrances at the eastern and western sides passing through towering double ramparts, as well as ditches and other defences, which may have been added when it was re-fortified in the Saxon period. Finds from the site suggest that it was used over a long period of time and include flint axes, Iron-Age and Roman pottery, weapons, tools and jewellery. You can see many of these on display in Devizes Museum. Half a mile (800m) north of the castle lies the battlefield of Beranburth where Saxon chief Cynric and his son Ceawlin defeated the Britons in a bloody massacre. It established the Saxons as overlords of southern England and later, in ad 560, Ceawlin became King of Wessex.

A memorial stone on the downs is dedicated to Alfred Williams and Richard Jeffries. Writer and journalist Richard Jefferies (1848-87), who was born at Coate near Swindon, is perhaps Wiltshire's best-known country writer. He spent much of his time walking the Wiltshire Downs and wrote: 'They only know a country who are acquainted with its footpaths. By the roads, indeed, the outside may be seen; but the footpaths go through the heart of the land'. His lyrical prose was deeply influenced by the vast open downland and the far-reaching views. His favoured spot along the northern ridge of the Marlborough Downs was on Barbury Down where he could stroll the lofty tracks and savour the breathtaking views across the Vale of the White Horse to the CotswoldsHis plaque on the stone faces his birthplace.

On the other side of the memorial stone a plaque is dedicated to Alfred Williams (1877-1930), self-taught scholar, linguist and nature poet who was born at nearby South Marston.

Much of this walk is along the Ridgeway. Used for over 4,000 years, this track across the chalk ridges of southern England linked East Anglia with the Dorset coast. The official long distance trail begins at Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire and ends at Avebury, 85 miles (137km) away.

Where to eat and drink

Light refreshments are available at the warden's hut and, on fine days in summer, there may be an ice cream van in the car park. Nearby pubs include the Bell Inn and the Crown in Broad Hinton.

While you're there

Take a closer look at one of Wiltshire's eight white horse chalk figures. South along the Ridgeway path, and accessible by car via Broad Hinton, is the Hackpen White Horse, a figure 29.5yds (27m) high cut in 1837 to celebrate Queen Victoria's coronation.

What to look for

As you traverse Burderop Down look for the outline of the 'Celtic' field system covering about 140 acres (56.7ha) of downland. Banks define the rectangular fields which were used from the Iron Age to medieval times.