Alfred's Greatness Remembered at Wantage

Visit the statue of a revered British king before heading for spectacular downland country.

Distance 6 miles (9.7km)

Minimum time 2hrs 45min

Ascent/gradient 150ft (46m)

Level of difficulty Easy

Paths Pavements, tow path, field paths and tracks, 1 stile

Landscape Town outskirts, farmland and downland

Suggested map aqua3 OS Explorer 170 Abingdon, Wantage

Start/finish SU 397881

Dog friendliness On lead on town outskirts, in villages and if horses about

Parking Long-stay car park off Mill Street

Public toilets By Town Council offices off Church Street and Portway

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Description

King Alfred (ad 849-99) is one of those heroic figures we may remember from the pages of school history books. His victories in battle and his reputation for scholarship and justice rightly earned him the title Alfred the Great. He is suitably commemorated in the Market Place of Wantage, the town of his birth. The striking marble statue of him at its centre was sculpted by Count Gleichen, Prince of Hohenlohne-Langenburg, and unveiled in 1877. As you pass by it, in the initial stages of the walk, note the battleaxe in one hand and manuscript in the other.

Directions

1 Keep to the right edge of the car park and look for the pedestrian exit. Turn left into Mill Street and walk up into the Market Place. Make for the statue of King Alfred and then follow the signs for the museum. Approach the parish Church of St Peter and St Paul and turn left into Church Street. The museum is opposite you at the next junction. Turn right here, avoid Locks Lane and follow Priory Road to the left. Head for Portway and cross over to a footpath to the left of The Croft.

2 Follow the clear tarmac path as it runs between fences and playing fields. At length you reach a housing estate; continue ahead into Letcombe Regis and make for the junction with Courthill Road. Keep it on your left and go straight ahead through the village, passing the Greyhound pub and a thatched cottage dated 1698.

3 Turn right by the church, signposted 'Letcombe Bassett and Lambourn' and, when the road bends sharp left, go straight ahead. After a few paces the drive bends right. Keep ahead along a path between banks of vegetation, following it as it curves right, then swings left. Pass Antwicks Stud over to the right and climb gently between trees and bushes.

4 Turn right at the next intersection and follow the tree-lined track to the road. Turn left and make for the junction. Cross over, pass alongside a house and follow Cornhill Lane. Begin a gentle descent, cross a track and continue down the slope. Avoid the right turning and keep ahead to a footbridge crossing the old Wilts and Berks Canal. Turn right and follow the tow path.

5 Cross the A417 road and continue towards Wantage. Follow a drive and then take the parallel path on the right, running alongside a section of restored canal. On reaching a tarmac drive, turn right and walk along to a row of houses. Turn left at the path junction, pass a recreation ground and follow the path as it curves right. Turn left into Wasborough Avenue, then, after some lock-up garages, left into St Mary's Way. Turn right and swing left into Belmont. Keep right at the fork and make for Mill Street. Keep left and the car park is on the left.

Useful information

Where to eat and drink

There's a good selection of pubs around Wantage. The Greyhound at Letcombe Regis offers a wide selection of home-cooked food and a large garden. Freshly made baguettes, sandwiches and home-made pies feature on the menu. Refreshments are also available at the Vale and Downland Museum.

What to look for

The Wilts and Berks Canal was opened in 1810, connecting the Kennet and Avon canal and the Thames. The canal was eventually closed in 1914, though much of the route still survives. Restoration work is taking place and it is hoped that, some time during the 21st century, boats will once more glide along the entire length of this waterway.

While you're there

The Vale and Downland Museum, in Wantage, describes itself as the starting point for exploring the Vale of White Horse. The museum is very informative, explaining in great detail the history of the region and how it has been shaped and influenced over the centuries.

Background to the walk

Alfred is also remembered for building a fleet, which earned him a reputation as 'father of the English navy,' and creating a ring of fortified strongholds around his kingdom. He was an educated man and as a child he travelled to Rome and to the Frankish court of Charles I, the Bald. He played a key role in reviving and translating many documents and was instrumental in codifying the laws of his kingdom. For example, he made a treaty which recognised the partition of England, with the Danelaw under Viking rule.

But it is the Battle of Ashdown, not far from Wantage, fought in ad 871, with whichmost local people probably associate Alfred. While the Danes held Reading, it was Alfred's intention to try and entice them away from the river, which they commanded, and confront them on the downs.

Alfred and his brother Aethelred successfully encouraged the enemy to pursue them up the Kennet Valley. The two men then fell back towards the downs with the Danes in hot pursuit. Then, at Ashdown, they stood their ground. What happened next is not clear. The area surrounding the Ridgeway here was guarded by forts and perhaps Alfred looked to them for help in his quest for victory.

Whatever took place high on the downs above Wantage, Alfred won the day, sending the Danes packing with the hollow sound of defeat ringing in their ears. Above all, Alfred had taught them a lesson, proving that once they were away from their boats they were an easy target. Alfred scored a number of victories over the Danes before being forced to retreat to the relative safety of the Somerset Marshes. However, he had taken a positive first step in his efforts to resist the Vikings during the following years.

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