The Churchill Hotel

The set up is all rather civilised in this Georgian mansion in its own grounds just a short walk from York Minster. The Churchill blends the airy elegance of its period pedigree with the sharp looks of a contemporary boutique city hotel in a dining room that looks through those vast arching windows (that the Georgians did so well) into the garden, where the trees are spangled in fairy-lights. Laid-back live music floats from a softly-tinkling baby grand piano as the soundtrack to cooking that hits the target with its imaginative modern pairings of top-grade regional produce. Local wood pigeon, for example, is paired with black pudding bonbons, bitter chocolate and espresso jelly, while main-course saddle of venison might share a plate with Morteau sausage, choucroute, parsley root, and red wine salsify. To finish, duck eggs add extra oomph to a custard tart served with clementine, apricot, and vanilla ice cream.