A smart, family-run restaurant carved out of a series of Grade II listed 18th-century cottages in the centre of this attractive market town. The dining room has plenty of period charm and warm, soothing colours on the walls, a feature fireplace, neatly clothed, well-spaced tables and genuinely welcoming staff. Dishes change daily depending on what's in season so the compact menu, showing modern British sensibilities, might feature a mini hotpot of venison cooked in red wine and topped with a bacon and chestnut crust for starters, followed by sea bass fillets with herb tapenade on lemon potatoes and a grain mustard, Sauternes and crayfish sauce. Tangy lemon tart with Amaretto ice cream or vanilla pannacotta with rhubarb compôte and home-made shortbread make for a difficult choice at dessert.