The Swan

Five centuries of history and a traditional coaching inn exterior give the Swan the look of a classic Kentish high street watering hole, but all is not as it seems: contemporary textures of stainless steel, granite and wood, funky modern artworks and mirrors now live beneath the original oak beams after a top-to-toe facelift transformed the Swan into an up-to-the-minute 21st-century bird. Switched-on staff create an unbuttoned, affable vibe in the sleek bars and main brasserie, where the menu promises thoroughly modern food that takes its inspiration from Britain and Europe. To start, one large, moist raviolo of Brixham crab comes with cauliflower purée, and herb and caper dressing, while a simple main course relies for its effect on the freshness of a whole gilt head bream, which is steamed in parchment on a bed of fennel, and served with ratte potatoes and aïoli. Chocolate tart with honeycomb ice cream makes a fine finish.