The Old Spot

Ian and Clare Bates' welcoming bistro occupies a Georgian townhouse in the heart of Wells with views of the west front of the ornate cathedral. The feel inside is unpretentious and relaxed, with a lively bistro buzz and agreeable décor of stripped wooden floors and smartly clothed tables. Naming your restaurant after a breed of pig is a healthy sign of a kitchen driven by sourcing top quality raw materials; menus with four choices at each stage show clear focus, delivering intelligent, unfussy French and Italian-influenced dishes with forthright flavours. Fricassée of snails and bacon with girolles and parsley purée has an earthy appeal that contrasts with the sunny Mediterranean colours of octopus salad with chick peas, olives and preserved lemon. Meaty mains might take in braised lamb shoulder with butternut squash, button onions and rosemary, while fish could turn up as roast plaice with mussels, vermouth, leeks and chives. Desserts - rice pudding with prunes and Armagnac, say - are alluringly simple.