A run-down boozer was given a new lease of life in 2005, and since then the foodies of Truro have taken Tabb's to their hearts. A stylish interior involving black slate floors, lilac walls, and high-backed cream and lilac leather chairs certainly looks the part, but it is Nigel's consistently excellent cooking that grabs the attention. Everything, including home-baked bread, is made in-house from scratch, on an inventive menu of ideas that could see a timbale of tender chilled duck fillet partnered with Cornish goats' cheese, crunchy vegetables, and fresh lemongrass as a perfect counterpoint. A well-balanced main course serves up braised neck of lamb with an intensely flavoured mix of tomatoes, red wine, olives and herbs, and braised celeriac. Nigel is an expert chocolatier, so his desserts, as witnessed in a moist sticky toffee pudding with chocolate sorbet and caramel sauce, should not be skipped.