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The Lady Helen Restaurant

Mount Juliet Hotel, THOMASTOWN, Co Kilkenny, ROI,

3 rosettes

Standing in the midst of the lush sprawl of a country estate not far from Kilkenny, the Mount Juliet is a Georgian manor-house hotel out of the top drawer. Its various magnificences include river and lake fishing, woodland for strolling in, a golf-course designed by Jack Nicklaus, shooting, archery and spa treatments, but there is still an endearingly family-friendly feel to the place, as members of the Little Rascals kids' club will no doubt attest. Panoramic views over the grounds and the river are just one of the attractions of the Lady Helen dining room, a gracious space done in fashionably muted beige, where any bedazzlement properly arrives on the plate, courtesy of chef Ken Harker, under the executive tutelage of Cormac Rowe. The tone of service is gently formal, but staff are friendly and keen, and have a good knowledge of what's on those menus. Suppliers and sources are credited in the preamble, from Wexford seafood to wild game, with the option of choosing from the carte or signing up to a six-course tasting menu with wine suggestions. Dishes combine obvious artistry with directness of impact, so that a starter might be comprised of quail leg confit cromesquis with red chicory and apple salad dually dressed with truffled aioli and hazelnut velouté. Mains might offer a meaty treatment for fish, so that turbot arrives in the company of foie gras, lentils and carrots, or there may be a north African note, as when Challans duck breast is dusted in spicy ras el hanout, served with spiced bulgar wheat, poached rhubarb, ribbons of mooli and yoghurt blobs. The multi-faceted approach continues into dessert plates that might juxtapose classic lemon tart with goats' curd parfait, raspberry sorbet and yuzu jelly. Incidentals such as breads and petits fours emphasise the consistent attention to detail.

Further information

Tel: 056 7773000
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Open all year.
Days closed for lunch: all week
Days closed for dinner: Sun, Tue

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern Irish
Chef: Cormac Rowe
Number of seats: 60
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.
Parking available.

 
 
The Lady Helen Restaurant, Thomastown

Directions

Use the route planner for your trip

M7 from Dublin, N9 towards Waterford, exit at junct 9/Danesfort for hotel
Nearest station: Thomastown

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