The Ritz Restaurant

It would be a brave person indeed who tried to argue The Ritz wasn't the most famous hotel in the world. The big news is the art-deco style Rivoli Bar has recently relaxed its dress code, so gents can slip off their tie whilst eating caviar and sipping on a cocktail - a Rivoli 10, perhaps, to celebrate the bar's anniversary. Keep the tie handy, though, for when you enter the grand dining room. It is a magnificent room to be sure. With its floor-to-ceiling windows looking over Green Park, rich Louis XVI-inspired décor, plush, tactile furnishings and chandeliers reflecting off mirrored walls, it's an extravagantly opulent space. A palm court orchestra plays most nights if anything else should be needed to make the experience memorable. Tailcoat-clad waiters set the scene for theatrical dining with classic tableside service, which, while knowledgeable and skilful, is not at all stuffy. Harking back to the days of Escoffier, the menu explores the classical repertoire with many old favourites such as grilled Dover sole but has also embraced more up-to-the minute techniques; dressed crab roll with avocado and Charantais melon might precede terrine of goose liver with rhubarb and walnuts, followed by a fish course such as brill with ceps purée and artichoke heart. Sound technique is evident in a meat course, too, with superb peppered venison loin with smoked sausage, pumpkin and cabbage. To finish, praline parfait and mandarin sorbet has a delightful balance of flavours, or go for some tableside magic in the form of crêpe Suzette (for two). The world-class wine list is explained, unsurprisingly, with aplomb.