The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

The Harrow is a Victorian pub, built of red and grey brick, partly clothed in climbing foliage, not far from the Kennet and Avon canal in rural Wiltshire. Inside has been carefully modernised, with a tawny palette to soothe the senses, original floorboards and tiles retained, the interlinked rooms joined by that familiar fixture of the modern country pub, a double-sided wood-burning stove. If it all sounds pleasantly unremarkable so far, think again. Now in its second decade under the conscientious stewardship of Roger and Sue Jones, the place is a shining beacon of quality. Roger's food celebrates simplicity, with each of the classy components of a dish speaking of itself. Spring's reds and purples arrive in the form of an intense beetroot and rhubarb chutney to accompany Dorstone, a Herefordshire goats' cheese, while poached lobster from the Welsh coast is given an equally vivid carrot jus. The celebrated versatility of pork takes on the guises of belly, fillet and a faggot of Kelmscott, with traditional apple garnishes, or there may be Cornish sea bass with bracing accompaniments of lobster and shrimp tempura. Multi-course tasting menus, including a vegetarian version that essays a culinary tour d'horizon from Morocco, via Italy and India, to exotic England for a dish of Somerset's Tymsboro cheese with truffles and cauliflower. Desserts strike out for distant shores too, when Thai rice pudding comes with marinated lychees, pistachio ice cream and a pine nut tuile, but there could just as easily be bread-and-butter pudding with prunes. It won't be long before you notice that everything on every menu comes with a drink suggestion (usually grape wine, but there's a Japanese plum wine to go with that Thai pudding). Sue Jones's enthusiasm and profound knowledge shine through in what is undoubtedly one of England's premier-league wine lists. You can only feel sorry for the designated driver.