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The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

LITTLE BEDWYN, Marlborough, SN8 3JP

3 rosettes

From the outside, The Harrow looks like many Victorian country pubs, its brick façade covered with creeper. The interior, though, has been tastefully modernised and its appearance leaves no doubt that this is a place where food is a serious commitment. Pale walls are hung with artwork, high-backed upholstered dining chairs are pulled up to white-clothed tables on the polished floorboards, and a double-sided wood-burner adds a homely touch to the interconnecting rooms. Roger Jones has built up an admirable network of suppliers over the years, buying only natural and free-range produce, much of it from artisan growers and traders. He has also set himself high culinary aspirations, pulling off some surprising combinations, such as a starter of foie gras, scallop and black pudding. Exotic touches can give depth to often classical ideas - enhancing lobster with chilli, ginger and spicy salt, for instance - and other cuisines can be plundered to suit a particular dish, seen in another starter of yellowtail tuna sashimi with bass and turbot céviche. Main courses on the short carte are normally evenly divided into fish and meat, the former perhaps fillet of line-caught turbot, of spot-on accuracy, served simply with hen-in-the-woods mushrooms and local truffles, the latter by pork fillet and belly with black pudding, a faggot and apple sauce. This apparently straightforward approach produces dishes of clear, assertive flavours, and conceals the kitchen's high technical strength and the level of consideration it puts into combinations, seasoning and accompaniments. Puddings do the trick in the shape of custard tart with rhubarb compôte, or a mini platter of parfaits, sorbets and chocolate. Every item comes with a wine recommendation, and the full list, assembled with expertise and enthusiasm, is a joy.

Further information

Tel: 01672 870871
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Tue
Dates closed: Xmas & New Year

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Roger Jones, John Brown
Number of seats: 34
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 
 
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Between Marlborough & Hungerford, well signed
Nearest station: Bedwyn Station

Local information for SN8 3JP

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