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The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

LITTLE BEDWYN, Marlborough, SN8 3JP

3 rosettes

The Harrow sounds like a rustic gastro-pub and it does indeed look like many red-brick, creeper-clad Victorian country inns. That assessment, however, falls way short of the mark. Inside, it's another story. Tastefully modernised, its pale walls are hung with artwork, high-backed upholstered dining chairs are pulled up to white-clothed tables on the polished floorboards, and a double-sided wood burner adds a homely touch to the interconnecting dining rooms. It's a look that leaves no doubt that this is a place where food is taken seriously. Chef-patron Roger Jones has built up a remarkable network of suppliers over the years, buying only natural and free-range produce, much of it from artisan growers and traders. He has also set himself high culinary aspirations, pulling off some first-class work, as seen in a stunning starter of Pembroke lobster where two pieces of immaculately cooked tail are served in the shell, a claw is fried in a light, crisp coating and it's all enhanced by spiced Halen Mon sea salt, baby coriander leaves and a sweet lobster sauce. This is cooking that eschews silly fads and treats top-quality ingredients with intelligence, sensitivity and real skill. Next up, a crunchy crumb-coated bonbon is packed with moist pieces of duck and matched with earthy Puy lentils and creamy mousse of rich foie gras balanced with the contrasting acidity of Pedro Ximenez sherry - a faultless dish where every element is there for a reason. A platter of intricate mini-desserts with a chocolate and passionfruit theme ends on a high note. Roger is something of an authority on wine and has assembled a remarkable 70-page list with expertise and enthusiasm, with suggested pairings for every dish.

Further information

Tel: 01672 870871
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Tue
Dates closed: Xmas & New Year

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Roger Jones, John Brown
Number of seats: 34
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 
 
The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, Little bedwyn
  • The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, Little bedwyn
  • The Harrow at Little Bedwyn, Little bedwyn

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Directions

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Between Marlborough & Hungerford, well signed
Nearest station: Bedwyn Station

Local information for SN8 3JP

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