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The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

LITTLE BEDWYN, Marlborough, SN8 3JP

3 rosettes

The Harrow may sound like a village pub, and the location near the Kennet and Avon Canal in deepest Wiltshire would appear to support that proposition, but under the conscientious stewardship of chef-proprietor Roger Jones and his wife Sue, the place has been transformed into a shining beacon of culinary high achievement. A modest creeper-draped, red and grey brick exterior belies a tastefully made-over interior: a double-sided wood-burning stove adds cosiness to the interlinked dining rooms, a tawny palette is easy on the eye, original floorboards and tiles add period character, and high-backed leather chairs at smartly-dressed tables make a statement of serious intent. And if the Riedel wine glasses seem a touch OTT, you should be aware that the Joneses are serious wine experts. Now hitting its 15th anniversary, the place has plenty to celebrate: the food is a hymn to simplicity, driven by a sincere passion for the quality, freshness and integrity of raw ingredients, and this admirable ethos means that what leaves the kitchen is gimmick- and fad-free, and crafted with a rare level of technical skill that allows each component to taste forthrightly of itself. Juxtapositions are fundamentally sound: a trinity of foie gras, scallop and black pudding might raise the curtain, ahead of a riff on four-week-hung Highland beef (fillet and 24-hour-braised cheek, tongue, shin and oxtail) matched with horseradish potato cake and king's cabbage. On the fish front, grilled line-caught turbot is married with the bold flavour of hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, while desserts could include bread-and-butter pudding with rum and prune parfait. As for the wine, the Joneses have put together one of England's premier-league wine lists, so why not put your faith in their knowledge and go with the suggestions that come with everything on the menu?

Further information

Tel: 01672 870871
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Tue
Dates closed: Xmas & New Year

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Roger Jones, John Brown
Number of seats: 34
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 
 
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Between Marlborough & Hungerford, well signed
Nearest station: Bedwyn Station

Local information for SN8 3JP

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