The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

LITTLE BEDWYN, Marlborough, SN8 3JP

Hidden away down labyrinthine lanes in the depths of Wiltshire near the Kennet and Avon canal, in the hamlet of Little Bedwyn, The Harrow is a shining example of a high-achieving country restaurant that has built a formidable reputation for its culinary élan, backed up by a wine list that has earned plaudits from international wine gurus. Every detail has been carefully thought through here: the bright, contemporary interior has sober leather high-backed chairs at tables dressed smartly enough to get into The Ritz, with classy Villeroy & Boch crockery, and only the finest Riedel glasses will do for those stellar wines. Sue Jones leads an accomplished front-of-house team who are reassuringly at ease yet 100% on the ball. Roger sources his kitchen's raw materials from far and wide: freshness and top quality is what counts here, so while you might find locally-foraged Wiltshire truffles, fish, seafood, meat and game travel from Wales, Scotland and the West Country. What arrives on the plate is relatively straightforward and simple: no gimmicks or fads, just a rare level of technical ability that allows the ingredients to hit the heights. Caramelised chilli squid might turn up with confit pork, ahead of wild line-caught turbot teamed with chicken and foie gras torte, and morel and chicken broth, while rhubarb might be given a workout in a multi-layered dessert comprising soup, Victoria sponge, compôte and ice cream. And then there's the wine angle: Roger and Sue are serious wine experts, so every dish is matched with a glass of something to boost pleasure skywards, while the list offers a revelatory experience of killer bottles from Down Under.

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Absolutely divine meal, elegant restaurant, excellent service. Proper welcome. We had wild salmon, very delicate. Venison with black pudding was scrumptious, very rich. The bread and butter pudding, had intense grown up flavours. It is a small, intimate restaurant, but you get no sense of being crowded or hurried. The Harrow is a real gem, we have already booked dinner, looking forward to a proper delve into what looks like a very good and well priced wine list.

Reviewer: KJG, Marlborough
Visited: 19 September 2007

214 of 397 people found this review helpful.
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Imaginative amuse bouches precede magnificent foie gras/scallops/black pudding with PX reduction - foie gras better than Gordon's, smoother and less gamey. Perfect Welsh Black fillet, potato cake with the right amount of horseradish. Turbot had delicate wild mushrooms and mash. Cheese clock face from creamy chevre to powerful Epoisse. Great wine list that left wallet untroubled: big California Viognier, peppery Oz Shiraz. Care and imagination from enthusiastic, unstuffy team. Highly recommended!

Reviewer: Surrey Traveller, Esher
Visited: 11 August 2007

245 of 457 people found this review helpful.
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Visited with 2 friends with whom I regularly visit restaurants in this area. This is undoubtedly the best we have visited in this area. All 3 courses, meat and fish, and the canapes, were delicious. The wines are above average price but the Pinot-Noir we chose was of a very good quality. In addition, the service was good and the atmosphere warm and friendly. I will be recommending this restaurant to my friends and colleagues and might even take my wife to it.

Reviewer: Scruff, Worcester
Visited: 26 July 2007

255 of 491 people found this review helpful.
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