The writer Daphne du Maurier was fond of a wander around the skinny streets of crooked houses and shops in lovely Fowey and would no doubt have appreciated the excellent harbour views to be had from this handsome Victorian hotel perched in landscaped gardens above the River Fowey estuary. The dining room is the place to soak up those soothing watery vistas while contemplating an appealing menu of classic combinations. The cooking makes a virtue of simplicity, with local and seasonal materials all pulling together to give the food its identity. As it is landed fresh practically on the doorstep, Cornish fish and seafood is a strong suit - perhaps Fowey River mussels teamed with celeriac, tomato, and saffron sauce, preceding a main course of pan-seared turbot fillet with crushed potatoes, creamed Savoy cabbage and butternut squash, and smoked bacon velouté.