The Elephant at Pangbourne

Done out in colonial style without resorting to cliché, this stylish boutique hotel sits beside the River Thames in the smart village of Pangbourne. Start with a cocktail in the bar before heading for Christoph's - the elegant fine-dining restaurant with views over the garden (where you can also eat al fresco) across to the church. Expect broadly modern British food with instances of Indian spicing along the way, and local suppliers proudly name-checked on the menu. Start with Channel squid sétoise with red pepper rouille and garlic crostini before chargrilled rose calves' liver with bubble-and-squeak and chasseur sauce, ending in style with a forced pink rhubarb and custard tart with condensed milk ice cream. There's also the BaBar bistro on site for simpler stuff (spot the elephant theme).