There aren't many distinguishing marks to the blank grey exterior of The Crown, but that only makes the impact of the interior design all the more dramatic. From the fishing boat that hangs above the glass-roofed bar to the twin dining rooms, one in terracotta, the other in stone, furnished with simple, café-style tables, it's a food-led inn conceived in the most appealing modern idiom. The menu has its finger on the pulse of culinary fashion, with starters such as cockle and samphire fritters, served with creamed peas, ham and baby gem. A slate of Superfood options will fill you with multi-purpose nutrients (think quinoa, courgette, avocado, toasted almonds, chilli and lime), or you might go down the chargrill route for yellowfin tuna or a wild boar cutlet. Extending the conceptual range is a list of dishes to be eaten with fork or spoon as you wish, such as lamb and chilli meatballs with puttanesca sauce and cannellini beans. Dessert might be a properly rich chocolate marquise.