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Andre Garrett at Cliveden

Cliveden Estate, TAPLOW, SL6 0JF

3 rosettes

One of England's very stateliest stately homes, Cliveden drips with the sort of history that's anything but stately. It may have played host to all the crowned heads since the first Hanoverians, but during its ownership by the Astors, it became the hub of the cocktail set, and in the 1960s was where John Profumo first laid eyes on Christine Keeler. The dining goes on in the glorious Terrace room, with its squadron of chandeliers, velour banquettes, silk drapes and views over parterre gardens to the Thames. A chef could easily get lost here, but Andre Garrett has his wits about him, and knows how to impress a knowledgeable clientele. Dishes are presented exquisitely, mobilising stunning ingredients: a starter comprises mackerel tartare, smoked eel beignets, black radish, cod roe and caviar for an essay in crisp, fresh flavours. There is fine technique on show amidst all the refinement, with a well-crafted ballottine of foiegras and Cotswold chicken partnered with Cumbrian ham and salt-baked celeriac (plus some golden raisins bringing a sweetness and acidity to the dish). Next might be venison saddle with a panko-crumbed croquette of braised shoulder and puréed quince, with the bitterness of dark chocolate in the sauce, or line-caught Cornish sea bass served on the bone (with squid, clams, potato gnocchi and a parsley velouté). A leisurely wait precedes rice pudding and Agen prune soufflé, into which Earl Grey vanilla sauce is decanted at the table, or slow-cooked Cox's apple with rosemary caramel, raisin purée and walnut ice cream. To accompany coffee the bonbon trolley arrives, with an enticing array served from crystal bowls - pistachio macaroons, dark chocolate ganache and more. There's a tasting menu, including an impressive vegetarian version, and a lunchtime market menu that constitutes very good value indeed. The wine list is a class act, with excellent advice on hand from the sommelier if required.

Further information

Tel: 01628 668561
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Open all year.
Sunday lunch available.

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British with Classical French Twist
Chef: Andre Garrett
Number of seats: 78
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.
Parking available.

 

Restaurant price guide

3 Course lunch from: £28.00
3 Course dinner from: £65.00
Sunday lunch: £50.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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M4 junct 7, A4 towards Maidenhead, 1.5m, onto B476 towards Taplow, 2.5m, hotel on left
Nearest station: Taplow

Local information for SL6 0JF

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