Longueville Manor Hotel

It's been the aim of the Lewis family, proprietors of Longueville over the past half-century, to make of it a place in which it would be very difficult not to relax - a claim that a country-house hotel should live or die by. That they have achieved it with quite such flying colours is due testament to the vision of the founding generation. Jersey isn't averse to the odd outbreak of tourist hurly-burly, but it's a world away at this elegant manor house, parts of which date back to the Middle Ages. The peaceful grounds with their little streams and flowerbeds are just made for wandering, while in the house itself, nice contrasts pop up all over - age-dark oak panelling with light floral print curtains, rough walls of exposed stone with delightfully squashy sofas. Dinner in the low-ceilinged, beamed Oak Room is one of the Channel Islands' premier dining experiences, thanks to the long residency in the kitchens of Andrew Baird. His cooking has been informed by local supply-lines and seasonality since long before others got in on the act, the centre of operations being a productive walled garden and glasshouses. To start with, scallops are lightly grilled, teamed with an oyster from Royal Bay and sauced with coral butter. Following the fish theme, you might proceed to brill on the bone with braised fennel, mustard mash and a shallot jus, or else light out into red meat territory with roast Angus fillet, served with coco beans and ceps in sauce bordelaise. What unites the dishes is a firmly grounded understanding of flavours and seasoning, and the willingness to let the main item shine forth. That's true too of a dessert of apple dartois (think posh turnover) with pistachio crème brûlée and cookie ice cream.