Craig Millar @ 16 West End

Occupying an old fisherman's cottage (it's the cottage that's old, not the fisherman), this restaurant is a sibling to The Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews (see entry), and was rebranded in 2011 under the name of chef-patron Craig Millar. There's an 800-year-old freshwater well with mythical healing powers here, but you may well find the fabulous seafood has equally restorative abilities. Wonderful views across historic St Monan's harbour help too, of course; there's now a seafront dining area fashioned from what used to be the kitchen, plus a lovely outside terrace. The décor doesn't need to compete and keeps it simple with dark Rennie Mackintosh-style chairs and neutral tones. The succinct menu (three options for each course) always offers a meaty option but it's the seafood that's the star attraction here. Fresh fish cooked with a lightness of touch is the name of the game: hot-smoked salmon with savoury lentils and tomato dressing to start, followed by hand-dived scallops with potato gnocchi, Jerusalem artichoke mousse, lemon and thyme jelly, with chocolate fondant and bitter dark chocolate ice cream showing consistency and technical ability to the end.