Hotel Tresanton

A sprinkle of the Olga Polizzi interior design magic transformed this former yachtie hangout into a trendy holiday destination back in the 1990s, establishing a much-imitated blueprint for seaside luxury. As you pass through the discreet portal at road level, you may wonder what the big deal is, but a few steps up the hillside, and all becomes apparent: the low-key boutique hotel sits at different levels above the St Mawes waterfront, opening up fabulous unbroken views towards Falmouth. On fine days, the alfresco terrace is pure heaven, but if the weather forces you indoors, that's no hardship, since the restaurant has vast windows to give you the same views. The space is suffused with the luminous feel of the Mediterranean, and suitably decked out with the understated nautical elegance of vanilla-painted tongue-and-groove walls, and blue seats at pristine, white linen-clad tables on mosaic-tiled floors. A sunny vein also runs through a culinary repertoire that aims to please by taking the finest local ingredients, especially those from local harbours, and subjecting them to simple but effective modern European treatments: sea bass and River Fal scallops with fennel, pea shoots and tomato, or Cornish native oysters with shallot vinegar are typical starters. Next up, turbot might share a plate with crab cake, steamed clams, squid and carrots, while those with something more red-blooded in mind could opt for Terras Farm duck breast with duck leg croquette, boulangère potato, and parsnips. As we're in the West Country, end with an indulgent in a dollop of clotted cream with pear tarte Tatin.