27 Lower Castle Road, ST MAWES, TR2 5DR
An exquisite Cornish coastal spot is the setting for Olga Polizzi's celebrated seaside hotel, where undeniable class is combined with enduring style. The light, clean decor works as much for what has been left out as added in, and the place feels as though it breathes in the fresh southwestern air through every pore, all the action provided by the changing sea. A svelte dining room is crisply clothed and mosaic-floored, all cool blues and reassuring calm, and staff run it with approachable good humour. Paul Wadham achieves perfect harmony with the marine environment, and every element in each dish makes a meaningful contribution to the whole. A confident pairing of sea bass and nubbles of chorizo with sprouting broccoli, white beans and tomato makes an inspired main-course assemblage, or there could be whole Dover with samphire and tiny brown shrimps, or meaty monkfish with roast peppers and pesto. They might follow sardine crostini with anchovies and olives, or perhaps a textbook chicken liver and foie gras parfait with caramelised onions and toasted sourdough. The Mediterranean mood continues to the end with moist Tunisian orange cake, offset with gently sour yogurt sorbet, or for something lighter, look to crème caramel with raspberries and a poppy seed tuile.
Tel: 01326 270055
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Dates closed: 2 wks Jan
Sunday lunch available.
Cooking type: British, Mediterranean
Chef: Paul Wadham
Number of seats: 60
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 2
No children under 6 yrs D.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £18.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.