Ocean Restaurant at the Atlantic Hotel

The stellar reputation of the Atlantic goes before it, as Jersey's taxi-drivers will attest. A family-run hotel built in the 1960s to a stylistic template that owes more than a little to the glamour of the inter-war years, it sits above the coast at St Brelade, offering panoramic views of the sparkling blue Channel - either that or the Turnerish washout of squally days, which have their own kind of poetry. Adorned throughout with fine paintings and sculptures against a pristine white backdrop, the whole place has a freshly minted glow to it, both stylish and supremely relaxing in its effect. Meals here rise to the sense of occasion created by the location. Mark Jordan is a chef of towering talent, mobilising the best of island produce from coast and countryside in a style of cuisine that is impeccably modern but carefully considered as well. The seven-course Tasting Menu that comes into play in the summer months is worth the Jersey journey alone, but there are dazzling dishes all over the standard carte too. Start with a version of bouillabaisse. At first, it looks like a contemporary deconstruction, its tastings of salmon, mackerel, halibut and lobster all sitting apart from each other, until they are brought into synthesis by the soup, which is poured out at the table to maximise its exquisite perfume and richness. Or consider a piece of seared duck foie gras, accompanied by a fantastic tarte fine of apple, vanilla-scented apple purée and maple syrup. Next up, a main course of roasted halibut in a bourguignon dressing of bacon and mushrooms, with crab-laced crushed potatoes and sticky oxtail. It sounds almost like too many elements, and yet they all play their respective parts in a consummately balanced dish. Desserts aim to bring you gently back to earth by means of pear Tatin with honey and lavender ice cream, or a superlative glazed banana croustillant with diced passionfruit jelly, crushed hazelnuts and caramel ice cream. A notable wine list of international luminaries has a proficient and genuinely helpful sommelier as guide, with a more than useful choice by the glass.