Ocean Restaurant at the Atlantic Hotel

The Atlantic occupies a prime spot on the Jersey coast, overlooking St Ouen's Bay, its low-slung white frontage evoking the seaside architecture of the 1930s. Inside, the place is decorated in cool, neutral tones, with nothing to jar the senses. White shutters frame the outward view from the Ocean Restaurant, with the sun going down behind the sub-tropical gardens. It all makes a fitting context for the scintillating cooking of Mark Jordan, who has turned this place into a real Channel Islands destination. Ideas and techniques are full of imagination, and dishes look stunning. Consider a first course of dry-roasted duck foie gras, accompanied by salted caramel nougatine, charentais melon sorbet and passionfruit foam, in which the components combine to form thought-provoking flavours, or another of seared langoustines with globe artichoke purée, asparagus and crisped pork belly. Mains are divided equally between fish and meat, and the former might proffer halibut served in the manner of lamb, with crushed minted peas and baby turnips. Desserts come headlined with their main ingredient, and display quite as much culinary firepower as the foregoing courses. 'Raspberry' brings on marinated berries, along with their sorbet, but also crunchy nougatine and spears of caramel. The six-course tasting menu with accompanying wines is probably the best way to explore the range, for those in the mood to splash out.

A13 to Petit Port, turn right into Rue de la Sergente & right again, hotel signed

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