Albright Hussey Manor Hotel & Restaurant

Although both bits were built in the 16th century, the Manor is very much a place of two halves architecturally, a brick-and-stone addition looming slightly over its timber-framed elder sibling. Not surprisingly, it is as full of character inside as out, especially in the dining room, where helmets and shields bear distant witness to the area's martial history, and the inglenook fireplace is practically big enough to serve as an air-raid shelter, should any future emergency threaten. That sense of character extends to the cooking too, which offers a tour of modern British dishes presented with care and refinement. Start perhaps with pigeon breast on wild mushroom and liquorice risotto, prior to seared sea bass with fennel dressed in ginger and lime. Desserts to make you feel wanted include a butterscotch cheesecake with banana and lime ice cream.